In Full Bloom

Known for their contemporary silhouettes devised for the modern woman, duo Ankur and Priyanka Modi's design evolution has been spectacular. They love representing our ethnic Indian elements on a global stage by bringing out traditional craft to the masses at large. Their design sensibility has now grown towards stylising the young, chic and free-spirited woman who is not just experimental but has always wanted to stay rooted. The duo works with new techniques each season that not just add to their versatility, but also contributes to their love for their country. Ankur and Priyanka have mastered the art to mingle trends and styles to create something that is true to their sensibilities. Edited excerpts...

The journey of fashion designing is always a noteworthy one. How did it all begin for you?

We started AM:PM almost 17 years ago as a high-prêt label. At the time, fashion on the runway and in real time was a stark dichotomy of traditional Indian or Western wear. We realised that there was a vast pool of latent demand for clothes that married both, much similar to the way in which the modern Indian woman was living every day.

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Over the course of time, our design language and creative process have steadily evolved to offer the AM:PM woman a very distinct aesthetic that is both Indian in form and international in detail. As a natural progression, the label has segued to view fashion through the lens of luxury. This has been the result of a virtuous cycle where both our ideas and execution follow each other to offer not just ‘clothes’ but a lifestyle to our clients.

Unlike the ethnic and bridal wears of various Indian designers, you are known for your unconventional motifs and silhouettes and being fearless to experiment, defining the new persona of a modern Indian woman. Where did you get the inspiration for your designs?

Our biggest inspiration which is also a business necessity in the digital age is knowing our consumer. It may sound clichéd, but at a time when everyone has front-row access and fashion moves overnight off the runway, into closets; brand loyalty is a function of relevance. As designers we’re expected to create the ‘future forward’ and with that premise we’re also constantly evolving to meet our customers’ preferences by being counter-intuitive in the way we design, present and sell our collections.

Today, the Indian woman and her choices are not bound to implicit convention. Fashion is a canvas of self-expression and our design philosophy reflects this in a subtle manner – be it by adding a touch of whimsy with our motifs or reimagining a traditional silhouette. We consume a lot of art and literature, which are always a great source of knowledge and insight while we begin work on a collection.

You seem to use a lot of surface texturing. What kind of techniques and fabrics have you come to work with over the years? How do you think your designs have helped in showing the world the rich Indian aesthetics?

Our signature aesthetic marries the easy flow of pure fabrics such as chiffon, silk and georgettes, with the use of local crafts such as bidri, mukaish in embroidery and embellishment. We have always wanted to show the world that Indian design is neither kitsch nor overtly ostentatious. Thus, giving our clothes a sense of movement while carrying rich detailing is our vocabulary for everyday luxury.

You work as a duo. Does it, in any way, hinder your creative process? Do you each have your own specific tasks?

After 17 years of working together, it is safe to say that AM:PM is a partnership in the truest sense of the term. Both Ankur and I are so passionate about the brand, it is now like a second-nature to us. Dinner-table conversations turn into brainstorming sessions; a picture taken on a holiday becomes the base for a motif, it does not feel like ‘work’ when there is excitement of having a shared vision.

As personality types, we are similar, as we have the same value-systems rooted in patience, individualism and kindness. Over time, Ankur and I have become particular that these values follow us at work to form a cohesive, secure work-culture for our teams. We both are also very big on introspection. Every couple of years, we like to take a step-back and re-tool the manner in which we work. This exercise has been our compass – for me, while I design and for our design direction; and for Ankur, in firming up our retail and growth vision.

A minimalist approach is seen in your design creations, but do you think that a nation drenched in maximalist tradition, is ready for such a change?

Personally, I am of the opinion that maximalism although prevalent, isn’t a fair representation of the Indian garment. Culturally, we have such a rich heritage in the manner in which we have crafted our textiles and worn them with simple pieces of jewellery or a strand of flowers. Minimalism is often mistaken with austerity, but we interpret it in the language of simplicity and quiet elegance – similar to the lifestyle of the wearer.

The Indian drape has gone experimental in leaps and bounds. Is experimentation a required tool for being consistent in the fashion industry?

Absolutely. However, experimentation must be guided by vision. Very often, experimentation and eccentricity are used as synonyms in fashion. But, one mustn’t forget that reimagining a traditional silhouette for the modern woman or re-introducing a centuries-old craft is experimentation too or even choosing not to tread the beaten path while marketing your brand is experimentation too.

How have you incorporated artistic flair, aesthetic and its diverse essence in your design language?

Art is the expression of creative skill and imagination. It is also producing works to be appreciated and admired for their beauty or power messaging. Every day, each one of us has an opportunity to express our individuality through our choices in our wardrobes. These choices reflect our mood and personality, as well as things as large as the historical and societal context of the times in which we live. We are consistently inspired by architecture and craft, elements of nature, stories and mythology. From the inception of the label, we’ve always taken Indian arts and culture, refined them into a contemporary aesthetic.