The Beauty Baubles

It’s the age of 24-carat skincare, with gold, platinum, pearls and rubies making frequent appearances in your moisturisers and serums. And they promise a world of benefits. We dig deeper to find out if there’s any truth behind the claims.

The Beauty Baubles

extremely effective in skincare products,” says Hayley L Dack, director of The Imperial Spa and Salon, New Delhi. “This energy can only be brought out through the alchemistic process, which releases the positive characteristics of these metals.” For instance, Swedish luxury skincare brand Själ immerses sapphires and other gemstones in oils for three months, allowing them to absorb their energies before packaging and retailing. So far, so good, right? However, some dermatologists and skincare experts argue about the long-term benefits of the metals and stones. While they agree that certain gems like diamonds, sapphires, rubies and crystals make for wonder exfoliants, they can only optically and temporarily luminise the skin when used in moisturisers, serums and creams. “Pearl, for example, is known to have skin-lightening properties, but there are no proven studies to support it,” says Dr Agarwal. With very little scientific research backing the claims, and a hefty price tag (sometimes with a minuscule quantity of the precious ingredient in the formula), it is best to be an in-the-know beauty junkie before you score.

We may just be harking back to the ways of Cleopatra, the woman who slept in a mask of gold. The obsession of the beauty and spa industry with concocting skincare potions off gold, diamonds, pearls and other such precious metals and gems seems to only be growing stronger. “Some of the most treasured stones in a jewellery store are now a part of your daily beauty regimen,” agrees Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Skin Alive Clinics, New Delhi. “Gold and platinum facials are the new fad in spas and salons across the globe and are found to be immensely effective in enhancing the quality of the skin.”

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The Beauty Baubles

But how do these hard metals and stones penetrate our skin? “Due to their negative polarity and ionisation capacity, precious stones and metals are capable of being absorbed by the skin,” explains Dr Madhuri Agarwal, consultant dermatologist at The Skin Clinic, Mumbai. Holistically, too, precious metals and gemstones are said to help rebalance and heal out-of-whack chakras. “The energy of the metal essences of gold and silver are 90 JUNE 2014 JUNE 2014 91 PLATINUM PLUNDER Platinum is the latest entrant in the luxury skincare segment. “It is said to maintain the skin’s pH and moisture balance,” says Dr Agarwal. Actress Nicolette Sheridan is a fan of La Prairie's Cellular Cream Platinum Rare (1). At `70,000 (approximately), it is one of the most expensive beauty products you can lay your hands on. “The formula is considered to improve the skin’s receptivity to vital nutrients, maintain hydration (regardless of the climate) and its electrical balance,” says Dr Chhabra. “Products with small amounts of platinum combat ageing, and rejuvenate the skin like nothing else.” Platinum-infused skincare products claim to have exclusive ‘smart crystals’ that help guard your skin’s youthful appearance, adds Dack. “There are certain claims of its anti-ageing benefits but there are no well-documented studies on it,” adds Dr Agarwal. Interestingly, platinum is used to treat cancer patients as it is known to slow down cell damage and the skincare products may just work on the same premise. GOLD RUSH This metal really is the gold standard in skincare and has been used by the Japanese, Romans and Egyptians since time immemorial. Premium 24-carat gold-infused facials make the skin luminous and fight free radical damage. “Gold can activate the basal cells of the skin, enhancing elasticity,” says Dack. “Its ions help stimulate cells, nerves and veins in your body, which leads to improved blood circulation and healthy skin.” Dr Chhabra fulrther elaborates: “Gold-based products increase the production of collagen, thus preventing ageing, and maintaining the firmness and youthfulness of the skin.” Gold-based products like Forest Essentials’ Advanced Soundarya Age Defying Facial Serum with 24K Gold (2), `2,950, also treat sun damage and have anti-bacterial and anti inflammation properties that help oxygen enter the skin for cell renewal.

QUARTZ QUEST This relatively common stone works to repair broken veins and reduce stress, a common culprit behind skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, says Dack. It is also used to curb acne, adds Dr Agarwal. But that’s not all. La Mer’s The Refining Facial (3), `9,650, combines quartz and diamond powder for skin that is smooth, rejuvenated and radiant. And you thought it was only used in watches! PEARL PATROL Your go-to jewel for instant elegance is also a complexion treatment for acne and tired skin. “The chief ingredient of powdered pearl, calcium carbonate can be absorbed through the skin,” says Dr Chhabra. Pearls contain amino acids, calcium and other nutritive minerals, adds Dr Agarwal. However, it is recommended to use pearls in oral supplements rather than as topical application for best results, she says. Topically, pearl powder is a 1.

The Beauty Baubles

92 JUNE 2014 powerful exfoliant and speeds the skin’s natural process of shedding dead cells and replacing them with new ones. “Pearl powder is sprinkled into wounds in Chinese hospitals because its antiseptic action speeds healing and also has cooling, disinfectant, and balancing properties,” says Dr Chhabra. Those with dull, mature skin can try the Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age Correcting Creme (4), price on request. “The best way to reap the benefits is to apply a pearl powder mask to clean, dry skin for about 10 minutes every week, preferably right after a shower,” suggests Dr Chhabra. Wash it off with warm water to reveal a refined, pearly complexion. AMETHYST HUNT This purple gemstone is creating a lot of buzz in beauty circles.“It has cellular repair properties,”says Dr Agarwal. “It has infrared properties which aid in improving skin texture.” It turns out that far-infrared radiation promotes antioxidant production in the body. Amethyst, therefore, can actually help produce antioxidants. We’re dying to get our hands on Själ’s Pearl Enzyme Exfoliating Mask (5), `9,700 (approximately). In addition to pearl, it packs in rubies, amethyst and tourmaline. Interestingly, amethyst is often used in conjunction with tourmaline in many antiageing products. “Amethyst heals wounds and skin tissues and appears to work through low-level heating process, although we don’t yet understand the mechanism behind it very well,” says Dack.

MOTHER OF PEARL LOOT Also known as nacre, mother of pearl contains many trace elements and amino acids. “It is loaded with calcium that helps neutralise excess acidity, which often leads to inflammatory skin conditions like dryness, dullness and lack of glow,” says Dack. However, like pearl, you’d be better off consuming oral supplements, suggests Dr Agarwal. Give a shot to Carita’s Perfect Cream for Body (6) `17,300 (approximately) that also contains gold, to treat, redness, spots and spider veins, and to impart an iridescent sheen to the skin.

SILVER STREAK Dating back thousands of years, silver was at the heart of the healing approach used by the Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Phoenician, Macedonian and Chinese civilizations. “Hippocrates, the ‘father of medicine,’ wrote in his medical texts—2,500 years ago—that silver had beneficial healing and anti-disease properties,” says Dack. “He praised silver for its tissue repair and wound-healing abilities.” Try Cor’s The Silver Wrinkle Serum (7), `7,000 (approximately) to banish those fine lines. Silver not only has powerful anti-microbial effects, it is also nature’s very own antibiotic that eliminates bacterial infections without initiating resistance. In addition, it is proven to kill virtually all forms of viruses, fungi, and moulds without any side effects. Now there is no excuse to sport lacklustre skin—shine on with these precious potions. 4.

Hansa Makhijani

Writing for L’Officiel India.

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