Table For Two, Please!

A TABLE FOR Photographs by Jonathan Frantini Tireless, enchanting, creative and over-energetic. That’s the Caten twins for you. They recently opened up a swanky restaurant, flanked by two spectacular swimming pools, at the heart of their plush Milan offices. Behind the quirky style and provocative approach lies an organisation that has been meticulously planned and orchestrated. One cannot help but wonder how these independent entrepreneurs were able to succeed so quickly in an economic climate that was not particularly conducive to business.

Dean and Dan Catenacci (their full name) were born into a family of Italian origin, in Toronto in 1964. In 1983, all of 19, they enrolled at the Parsons School in New York. They stayed there for only one semester before returning to Toronto. The actual learning began on the job while designing their first women’s collection DEanDAN, which launched in 1986. In 1988, they began to work for a local prêt-à-porter brand Ports International (which later became Ports 1961), the founder of which, Luke Tanabe, mentored them. The Catens made their debut on the Milan fashion scene in 1994, with a menswear collection. They brought out their women’s collection in 2003. “We had not really received a formal education,” Dean Caten recalls. “Luke Tanabe gave us a realistic training on the job. We worked really hard, till 9 or 10 every evening, and back to work the next morning. And we were never dressed for the traditional ‘corporate’ environment, which some of our colleagues even complained about. Tanabe would always defend us: ‘Boys like these are hard to find. They are unique.’ Of course, he never said this to our faces. He was generous but a firm boss.It was great learning from him. The challenges kept coming our way. He once said to us, ‘You’ve said beautiful twice in the same sentence. Find another word.’ We would be tested on everything. He did not pay us too much and that kept our head on our shoulders. And that is how we learnt discipline. It was he who educated us. He was of Japanese origin, was the father of six daughters and had no sons. And since we did not have the relationship we wanted with our parents, we soon February 2014 147 became like his sons. But we were terrified of him. He would look at the smallest details, even the flowers at the reception. Every week, we would ask for a new florist. He was never satisfied. One day, we made the bouquet. He came in and, as usual,began yelling,asking who had made it.The receptionist confessed that it wasn’taflorist but us. All of a sudden, he began smiling and said, ‘I knew it, I knew it!’ After that day, we had to make the bouquets every Monday morning.” Soon after, Dean and Dan launched their own brand of casual clothing, Tabi. They moved to Milan in 1991, where they became designers for Gianni Versace and then Diesel. Renzo Rosso, the owner of the latter launched the menswear brand Dsquared2, in 1994. The duo moved to London where they became friendly with some popular musicians of the time. Lenny Kravitz, Justin Timberlake and Robbie Williams became their regular customers. Their moment glory came when Madonna was entirely dressed in their clothes for her single Don’t Tell Me and for her Downed World Tour in 2001. What followed was a media frenzy and instant international recognition. Soon after, they launched their first women’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2003-04.

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The brand now features luxurious collections of jeans, perfumes, shoes, sunglasses, undergarments, kidswear and even makeup. Their creative studio employs 20 designers while new boutiques continue to pop up in cities all around the world.

We meet the designer duo at Milan’s Via Ceresio, where they’ve had their office for the past three years. A photoshoot is underway in their office and a model from Amsterdam is waiting to be shot on the terrace of Ceresio 7, their new restaurant, which offers spectacular views of the chic skyline of Milan’s Porta Nuova district.

What was in this wonderful space before you invested in it? Dean: It has been an abandoned space for the past 20 years. The building was constructed by Mussolini in 1929 to house the electricity headquarters. That’s where the Enel logo, which we’ve retained, on the building’s façade is from. What are your plans after this restaurant?

Dean: We would like to open a spain the basement, a gym and everything that comprises wellness. The space is really quite massive. After a round of therapies, you could take the elevator up to the roof where you can enjoy a leisurely lunch or even lounge by the pool. We want to transform the little outhouse into a guesthouse. We will reserve that for some of our exclusive guests like Rihanna or Beyoncé. What is your equation at Ceresio 7?

Dean: It is a partnership of three guys, who manage the restaurant and the chef, Elio Cironi. The chef is extremely well known and has worked at the Bulgari Hotel in Milan. Dan and I own the building, so that makes all of us partners. We’d never thought we’d be managing a restaurant someday. But we are happy with the idea of having a space that appeals so much to us.

What was your initial plan for this terrace? Dean: We wanted to construct something inspired by New York or LosAngeles between1930and1950.We hired Storage architects to design the space and we used furniture from Dimore Studio. At the same time, we wanted this space to be discreetly tucked away from the rest of the world. The Goodlife Your brand has evolved quite a bit over the years. How do you position it now?

Dean: We don’t have a fixed plan. The only thing we are sure of is that when you are completely satisfied with something, the need to evolve does not crop up. I am never satisfied. I’m always wanting more. “Never enough” could well be the motto of our life.

You were born in Canada, you lived in London, you work in Milan and you’ve been all over Europe. You have travelled the world, but you’re always together. How does this help in the creative process?

Dean: The world has become like our own home. We even have a gypsy code: No more than three days in one place. In London, we both have our own rooms, but when we are travelling, we usually share a room. It helps us think and communicate better, making for better results. Every season, we notice an increasing sense of luxury in your collection. Could that possibly mean that you will design an haute couture collection someday?

Dean: I would love that. But first, I’d like to explain why our current collections are more luxurious. For women, we design a pre-collection, a collection and then a collection for the show. That totals six collections per year, only for women. The pre-collection is the most popular because it is the first to arrive in stores. It is more basic. The main collection is an evolution of this one, in keeping with current trends. When the ramp collection finally arrives, it’s time to have fun. The clothes are spectacular, we drive around in Rolls Royce cars and, in our opinion, that’s what makes it super luxurious. How’s that for a show! Of course, denim is our forte. We are not abandoning our core strength, but we are not insisting on it either. Above and facing page, Ceresio 7 with a model wearing creations from the Spring/Summer 2014 collection.

Hair and makeup: Astor Hoxha.

Do you plan on ever showcasing your collection at the haute couture fashion week in Paris?

Dean: Why not! That would be a dream. Personally, right from the time I start fittings with the models, I am perfectly at ease with a needle and a pair of scissors. My astrologer even told me that if I wasn’tadesigner, I would have made a good plastic surgeon!

On the personal front, do you have any plans? Marriage?

Dean: I do want to move to the next phase of my life. No, I’m not tired of fashion, but I would like to work on more projects. Creating the restaurant was like witnessing the birth of a child.

The fact that you are twins, how has it helped you both work together? Has it contributed to the success of your company?

Dean: It is actually a godsend. Dan knows I will never leave his side and he knows I’m not going anywhere. We are constantly competing with each other and we use this energy to join forces. Nothing can stop us. Even on bad days, we are never alone. If something happens to one of us, the other one is always there to help. I could never live without my brother. And I would never want to! Even though it is a morbid thought. Of course, we both have our respective partners. And sometimes our relationships last a long time, but I know that Dan is with me forever.

Dan: We can do two things at once, you know. Like while you were being interviewed, I was styling the model f or L’Officiel.