Mistress Of Spices

You were born and brought up in London, you studied in Geneva, Paris and Madrid. It was an exciting variety and blend of tastes and culture. Would you encourage the idea of blending the culinary culture of these countries to Indian cuisine or you enjoy them with their original identity and why?

I appreciate both. I love food to taste how it should and am always really happy to have proper English, Spanish, Swiss, French, Indian or anything else but as a chef I do enjoy fusing ingredients in a sympathetic way that enhances rather than confuses a dish. Sometimes, I will eat something and think that would work so well with spices or with curry leaves etc. For example, Anjum’s Quick and Easy Indian had a fair amount of fusion in it and some of my favourite dishes were fused and come about by living in the West and having different life and food experiences, some of my favourites from that book are fused, for example a tandoori mushroom, butternut squash and crème fraiche tart, the spicy tangy mushrooms work really well with the sweet roasted squash, crème fraiche and crispy pastry. Another was a tamarind chutney glazed grilled pork with a bowl of rice noodles and a Keralan inspired coconut sauce. Clearly this dish doesn’t exist in India but the flavours are all Indian and the whole thing works well together.

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How was your experience with UKTV Food’s Great Food Live?

I really enjoyed going on that show, it was lots of fun and the presenter Jenny was fun and loud and like the Jewish mother I never had. We were all very sad when it didn’t get recommissioned.

Where do you think Indian food stands on the global food map?

I think it is a loved and respected but is erroneously not always considered refined or sophisticated but weaving all those flavours together and making delicious harmonious meals is very sophisticated, I think turning lentils into breads, crispy papads, steamed dhokla and melting laddoos as well as a really wholesome curry is an art and a craft.

What’s the biggest draw of cooking?

I enjoy the process of cooking, I find it quite meditative, I’m also quite creative and this comes out in my food. Lastly, I love the alchemy of cooking, you take ingredients that are often a bit blah by themselves, cook them in a certain way and turn out something delicious. It’s a bit like grown up magic; the power of the fire.

You have also been a consultant chef to Birds Eye brand in order to develop a range of healthy Indian ready meal. How healthy is a pre-ready meal really?

Some ready-made meals are healthier than others. Cooking fresh food and eating it straight away is the best way to eat but unfortunately not everyone has the time or confidence in the kitchen to do that. As a cook first, I try to inspire people and get them into the kitchen but many people who watch food TV, don’t actually cook. Birds Eye was a long time ago though (maybe 15 years), I have since then launched my own range of sauces and they are completely natural with no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives. There aren’t even any shortcuts, they are cooked in the same way you cook at home with stages in the cooking and the resulting layers of flavours. Like I said, some ready-made meals are healthier than others.

After various hits like Anjum’s Quick & Easy Indian and Indian Everyday: Light Healthy Indian Food should we look forward to another encouraging and informative book from you anytime soon?

Yes! My new book which I think you will love comes out in February. I am really excited by it as it is contains all my favourite authentic Indian recipes, no fusion and no frills, well maybe a little fusion and a few frills but basically really delicious food. I think it will be my best book and fingers crossed will be one of those cookbooks you will keep coming back to.

As a chef, what are the five major things you are always careful about?

Choosing the right dish or dishes for the occasion, cooking them properly, taking the time to season well but not over-season, using fresh and good quality ingredients and making sure the food is hot when it hits the table.

What do you enjoy indulging in the most other than cooking?

I love being outdoors and walking, hiking etc. these are all ways of me unwinding after spending the day in the kitchen but that is hardly indulgent. So Indulgent is good chocolate and a good cocktail with friends.

Spices you love the most and are almost a part of all your preparations.

The usual Indian ones that you would expect in Indian cooking but specifically also black pepper, I think it is an unsung hero with everyone taking it for granted and no one appreciating it anymore. I also love dried pomegranate seeds and dried mango powder as they are so versatile and so interesting.

If you had to pick one cuisine as your favourite, what would it be and why?

Indian food is my first love because it is the tastiest and healthiest cuisine, full of delicious lentil and vegetable dishes, full of superfoods and full of history, heritage and for me, memories.