Food for the Soul

It’s not often that you encounter a completely immersive dining experience, flavours and ambience combined. Keeping the capital’s maddening pace in mind, a peaceful lunch or dinner amid engaging conversation with your loved one or friend at a restaurant seems to be a far-fetched dream. With this wishful thought, we set out to explore ROOH Delhi, perfectly at home in Ambawatta One, on a winter afternoon.

Décor concept

A refurbished 150-year old haveli, ROOH Delhi is a paradox; a cosmopolitan experience nestled in the lush green crescent dotted with chic stores and winding around the iconic Qutub Minar. The haveli’s colonial style architecture has elements of art deco and incorporates wide arches that enhance the feeling of spacious elegance. The colour palette in tones of matte gold and white walls complements the underlying theme of the restaurant - a perfect balance and blend of new age and traditional sensibilities. Soft and comfortable furniture with pastel pink leather fittings lend an air of comfort and drama that is offset with the immense chandelier.

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Food philosophy

The new winter menu of the restaurant celebrates seasonal produce, and authentic and traditional winter delicacies. Ingredients play an important role, where grilled dishes, green vegetables and good quality sea food are staples of Indian winter diet. Chef Sujan Sarkar says, “An important ethos that I strive to embody in the kitchen is to the use of sustainable methods and zero wastage wherein we use the entire produce and not just pick and cut them further. From dates, jaggery (Nolen Gur) to so many different types of green vegetables and fruits, I have experimented with a wide variety of winter bounty such as persimmon, red carrots, sarson, etc.” Talking about cooking techniques, he adds, “I have also focused on use of various cooking techniques to create different textures and invoke the sense of the familiar. The cocktail menu has been inspired by the rasas to achieve a balance of body, mind and soul with homemade concoctions.”

Taste test

Our gastronomical extravaganza started off with the choicest appetisers— Potato Chaat (yoghurt mousse, tamarind, strawberry, kale, raspberry snow), Cauliflower Koliwada (crispy fried cauliflower, rice hollandaise, peanut thecha, cultured cream) Duck Seekh. Next up for the mains, we tried the chef’s recommended Sarson Ka Saag Tart (winter greens, baked polenta bread and cultured butter) and Pork (pandi) Curry (braised belly served with celriac noodles and kadambuttu or rice dumplings). Every dish packed flavours, technique and chef’s flair for innovation. We were also served with ROOH’s seasonal cocktails including Buttered Chai, Himalayan Kahwa, Seasonal Mimosa and Smoked Pumpkin Bourbon. What literally took the cake was, Cashew Phirni Cake Mousse which served cashew cake with black rice wafer and kumquat jam. The melt-in-your-mouth combination of cake and phirni perfectly abides by the ethos of ROOH-tradition meets innovation. The flavours worked in harmony and left us wanting for more.

ROOH Delhi, Ambawatta One, Mehrauli, New Delhi