I’m Sentimental

Much loved during the Victorian era, charms and sentimental jewellery have made a comeback, with artists and jewellers clamouring to reinterpret this genre.

It is often said that jewellery has had close ties with romance, from the beginning of time. This, however, is a bit of a faux-pas, considering that romantic jewellery was born in the Middle Ages but was largely developed in the 18th century. It became popular in Europe as a romantic form of art, in response to the classical school of thought. Napoleon loved such jewellery and regularly sent bracelets with coloured stones to his beloved Josephine. What’s more, the initials of each stone in the bracelet spelt a word known only to the two of them. The house of Nitot, founder of Chaumet has always used allegorical motifs like the bowtie and ribbons in its jewellery. An important point to note is that sentimental jewellery is not to be confused with engagement or wedding rings. It is not a symbol of power, vanity or social status but a way to evoke admiration, feelings, gratefulness and, at times, sadness and regret. A perfect example of this can be found at Cartier, much before the “Love” bracelet with the flower brooch created in 1962 and later integrated into the Cartier Paris collection in 1969. This brooch is a rose surrounded by precious stones which can be shaped depending on the owner: the glistening petals of this flower can be deployed by pressing on the emerald situated between the leaves.

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Today, people are crazy about charms, especially the British ones. There’s a reason behind the British connection with charms. Queen Victoria, a widow for a large part of her long reign, made it fashionable to wear “mourning” jewellery in unusual shapes like snakes, swans, hearts, angels, monograms, stars, crowns and spiders. These charms became trendy again when the house of Dodo decided to use diamonds in them. This Italian jewellery house, founded in 1995, has now found a huge fan following for its delicate, innovative jewellery. Then there are more daring designers who like to carry out exercises in style. Axelle Delhaye is inspired by Victorian charms in her Belgian workshop where she creates new-age bracelets and talisman neckpieces. Liz Swig, influential in the world of art shows that romantic jewellery is a form of exquisite artistic expression. The American artist loves connecting artists and brands, through her agency Lizwork. She asked seven female artists (the crème de la crème: Shirin Neshat, Barbara Kruger, Cindy Sherman, Laurie Simmons, Rachel Feinstein, Mickalene Omas and Wangechi Muti) to revive 17th century jewellery: each of these seven artists designed charms which came together in a bracelet produced by the jeweller Ippolita. The result is a work of art indeed. www.dodo.it, www.axelledelhaye.com, www.ippolita.com

Say it with

A symbol

An anchor to say “I hope to keep you”, hands to promise faithfulness, bats for their erotic symbolism and a spider for balance…

Necklace designed with antique gold and a vintage spider charm from the Victorian era, Axelle Delhaye. www.axelledelhaye.com

An artist’s charm

These remind you of a lover who is far away from you.

“Senso Hero”, in green gold with seven charms designed by seven artists, limited edition of 50 pieces, ippolita.com

A formula

Short and sweet

“Fuck off” yellow gold ring, by Solange Azagury-Partridge. www.solange.co.uk

Un rebus

In this respect, no one has been able to equal the innovative spirit of the late Line Vautrin.

Broze rebus box with the words “Je t’aime en silence”, Line Vautrin, 1953, available at linevautrin-collection.com

A flower

A blossom or a bud depending on your preference, just like Cartier’s exceptional brooch from 1969.

In gold, platinum, brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and red rubies.

A mantra

We can’t help but love this “Bird of Freedom” pendant from the house of Perlota.

“Bird of Freedom” yellow gold and diamond pendant, Perlota.

Chain and pendant ‘Silhouette heart’ in rose gold chain silver and black PVD with pendant ‘Silhouette clover’ pink gold, Dodo.

From the November 2016 issue of L’Officiel India.