The 70mm Wardrobe

Films tell a tale of us. The way we are, what we wear, what we watch, what we find stylish, from reel life to real life. A look at Indian film fashions that made it to our home and streets this year...

Rekha today may laughingly recall the time when the Umrao Jaan team mercilessly slashed up satin and raided their mum’s and grand mum’s closets for brocades, muslin and tissue, but she knows that even during those wonder years when actors shot for movies wearing their own clothes—they were setting up what later generations would label as ‘fashion trends’.

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Yes, among all that is now sepia tinged good, there were the ugly years when we watched heroines being coaxed into ridiculous, conical, padded blouses and rotund heroes into tighter sweaters. There had to come a day when we turned away from the film screen, exasperated at another flouncy frock, satin shirt and asked ourselves, ‘Something doesn’t fit right, does it?’ It could be that this coincided with a time when India’s budding fashion industry started stepping its right foot forward on our TV screens. It could be that the newly confident Indian middle class looking at their film gods and goddesses finally started saying it aloud, ‘Is this how I am going to aspire to look?’

Perhaps the film gods were listening; Or at least the Chopras and Johars were. Manish Malhotra and Urmila Matondkar made that white outfit and later a knotted shirt and blue jeans work in Rangeela, and later Malhotra accompanied Karan Johar on a Yash Johar funded shopping spree in London for Kuch Kuch Hota Hai. How Gap closed the gap between the fashion savvy and those aspiring for that savoir-faire is legendary. Years later, our film royalty pose in Chanel and Chanderi, Dior, Stella McCartney and Sabyasachi with equal poise.

Has what we considered stylish changed? Has the definition of fashion in India undergone a mini re-fit? What is it that still enraptures our fashion taste-buds? 2013 may not have thrown up that iconic Chandni sari, or Madhuri’s backless purple blouse. It may not have the Bunty Babli long collared, contrast fabric peeking from the cuffs and collar Kameez, but what it DID have, and what we will take away from 2013 has been far more stunning.

Sahib, Bibi Return to Your Soirées: Come Again Jamavar and Jodhpurs

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The wardrobe from Sahib Bibi Gangster Returns had all of us shopping for Mahie Gill, Jimmy Shergill and Soha Ali Khan’s wardrobe that spelled regal splendour in bold and capital. This slight over the ‘top’ ness combined with something one could wear for an afternoon soirée, is worthy of creating a look that is just right: Royal enough, wearable enough.

What We Loved

Mahie Gill’s low-backed blouses and jamavar, chiffon, gota and embroidery work ensembles. We are also still drooling on how Soha Ali Khan brought her discerning eye to the film, whether it was her effortless chic in summery frocks, the crisp linen trousers and pastel colours, or those stylish scarves that could be used to tie up a loose ponytail. We also liked her hats that made an easy transition from cheering at Oxbridge boat races, polo matches or lying around in a haystack with her paramour. And then she moved effortlessly to a restrained albeit luxuriant take on Indian formal wear. Jimmy Shergill introduced a season of jodhpurs, breeches, leather sandals and a rainbow of colours in jackets, and that statement collar.

Celebrating Jawani: Mixing Western and Indian Staples

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Summers brought us Deepika Padukone in that fiery kurti and fetching shorts in Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani. Deepika had by now grown comfortable in her role as this year’s style goddess and was effervescent as sparkling champagne bubbles doused her sheer saris. Ditto in Race 2 where I guess the stylists’ brief was to celebrate the impressive body of work and workout of Deepika, Amisha and Jacqueline.

What We Loved

In addition to the afore mentioned shortskurti combination and the sheer sari, we also coveted the quasi harem pants–bustier coming together in Dilli Wali Girlfriend, (shades of which we had seen when Preity and Rani had taken to the dance floor in Har Dil Jo Piyar Karega). Deepika’s character and how she did the transition from her geek student mode to someone with a funkier dress sense, combining kurtis and shorts, and later a Molotov Cocktail of cocktail wear had all the young women taking notes.

In Race 2 we had yards of long limbs and minuscule, albeit aesthetically cut dresses, and Jacqueline bringing a lot of cheer in red and green dancing to this year’s party song with a Santa allusion.

South Staples: The Half-Sari Express

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Deepika Padukone’s Meena’s adaptation in Chennai Express, and our quick adoption of the half sari, successfully works towards erasing the North South Fashion boundaries that still exist in India.

What We Loved

We are now living in the times of loha garam hai idli dosa lagao; a new found appetite for all things the other side of the Vindhyas. Young women in postcodes elsewhere may have already known about the versatility of the half sari. It was now the chance for the rest of India to rediscover something from their sister’s wardrobe. If it is sported in your neighbourhood revelry, you know East and West (India) has been conquered.

Haute Filmi Trimmings

What is a fashionista without her accessories? Here’s a look at all the candy on arm, neck and ear’s that we are dying to grab…

1 Sonam’s jhumkis in Ranjhanaa had all of us making the beeline to the Chandni Chowks of our neighborhood for those delicate baubles.

2 Race 2 had us racing for the wedge heels Jacqueline flaunted, and the bright, chunky necklaces on Deepika’s beautiful long neck!

3 Lootera had us ready to raid a Bengali grandmother’s treasure chest for those long gold chains, some of the quintessentially Bengali designs and the pendants.

4 Even though we cowered as Supriya Pathak and Deepika Padukone glowered at each other in Ram-Leela, we couldn’t help being mesmerised by their beautiful oxidized jewellery. But don’t you get that betel nut crusher out!

Kutch Kutch Hota Hai: The Dance-Drama of Gujarati Fashion

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Ram-Leela‘s star couple Ranveer Singh and Deepika Padukone and their on-screen chemistry and fiery fashion statements had all of us searching for Kutch on make-my-trip. Make my fashion trip more likely.

What We Loved

Ram-Leela may have been hastily rechristened Goliyon Ki Rasleela Ram-Leela, but snapshots from the film had already changed the way we looked at rustic charm. The humble Gujarati kedia, the embroidered choli and shawls, that ankle length avatar of the ghagra skirt. All of it has suddenly become coveted. And how.

From Kuch Kuch Hota Hai to Kutch Kutch Hota Hai. Purab, Paschim. Our film journey, in 2013, celebrating 100 Years of Indian Cinema was complete.

From the December 2013 issue of L’Officiel India.