Tailored Dreams

Prabal Gurung’s stratospheric rise to fame reads like a modern day fairy tale. He might have surfaced on the New York fashion scene just five years ago, but he’s hardly the new kid on the block. Having begun his journey into the world of fashion in 2002, Prabal lived in various cities around the world and worked with some of the best luxury houses before launching his eponymous label. Ergo, the term ‘newcomer’ is clearly an understatement. But Prabal can certainly be regarded as fashion’s ‘fresh face’ for instilling a strong playfulness in sportswear-like silhouettes with couture ideals. His fashion line balances the classically elegant and the fiercely bold with stunning precision. Not surprising then, he has reserved a cushy couch for himself in the crowded world of fashion and is the man fashion’s royalty looks up to now.

THE INEVITABLE BEGINNING Growing up in Kathmandu, Nepal, he spent his school days doodling and sketching, always looking for a creative outlet. Having lived in many different places, Prabal possessed a rare originality, that he gained because of being exposed to diverse cultures. And this multi-cultural upbringing has contributed massively in shaping him as the designer that he is today. His formative years in Asia led him to become more interested in the intricacies of Asian craftsmanship. He recalls, “Growing up in Nepal, I was constantly inspired. The never ending patterns, prints and the vibrant colours I saw every day, the depth of culture and history I was surrounded by, the many ways in which women drape their saris… adorning themselves with jewellery and intricate embroideries fascinated me towards aesthetics at an early age.”

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The young designer feels that with such enormous cultural influences, his exploration into fashion design was inevitable. After completing his schooling in Nepal, he came to New Delhi to study at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and also apprenticed at several local production and fashion houses alongside. And it was in this city that his design career began. He then hopped over to Melbourne and later to London to assist stylists for fashion shows and magazine shoots. Subsequently, he enrolled himself at the Parsons School of Design in New York and interned at Donna Karan. Upon graduating, he spent two years with Cynthia Rowley’s design and production teams. Soon after, he was appointed as the design director at the iconic Bill Blass, a post he held for five years until launching his own collection, PRABAL GURUNG.

BUILDING PRABAL GURUNG, THE BRAND The designer launched his eponymous collection in February 2009 with a philosophy encompassing modern luxury, indelible style and an astute sense of glamour. Although Prabal had been working for many years before he launched his label, the industry still credits him as an overnight success. “While it did happen fast, I don’t believe there is such a thing as ‘overnight success’, irrespective of the accomplishment being big or small, momentary or permanent. A tremendous amount of hard work will always have to be put in, to make anything a success,” he justifies. Launching his label at the peak of the economic downturn, he was warned by several friends and colleagues not to take the leap then. Talking about the challenges he faced, Prabal says, “Going ahead with this in the face of all warnings not to, was definitely the first challenge! From there it has been one challenge after the other – from getting people’s attention, to maintaining it collection after collection. I personally delivered all invitations for my first presentation to the editors around New York… on my bicycle!” What followed were rave reviews and a cult celebrity following.

He admits that his background in Nepal and India has a direct relationship with his collections. But he also cleverly juxtaposes this ethnic aesthetic with his New York sensibilities to create stunning ensembles. “I find New York equally inspiring, albeit in an entirely different way. It allows for such freedom of expression and creativity. There’s street art, galleries, music, food and free thinking and completely diverse demographic of people... It’s an endless wealth of culture.” MUSED BY HIS MUSE Prabal’s muse is no ordinary woman. “I design for the thinking man’s sex symbol. Our muse is a sophisticated, strong and a truly empowered intelligent woman. I want her to feel confident, alluring and captivating in our designs. We like to refer to the idea of femininity with a bite.”

ROARING RESORT 2014 Prabal lays emphasis on intense, engineered prints with complicated construction techniques. But with his Resort 2014 collection, he has charted a new path for himself. “There was a focus on elegant, chic and refined clothes. We wanted to offer sportswear with couture ideals.” It was apparent in the eveningwear: Almost all the gowns followed long, athletic lines, with colour-blocking details.

His sleeveless sheaths, with the most interesting one being an acid-yellow wrap in tuxedo style, gave us a dekko of what we can expect from the designer in the coming seasons. Alongside his most successful silhouettes, the resort collection is prominently punctuated with the presence of separates and knits. “The white acetate sable tuxedo pant suit perfectly embodies the idea of tailored evening wear for this season.”

So what does it take to run a thriving label like Prabal Gurung? According to the designer, it all boils down to the balance between the creative process and practical business management. “The greatest difficulty I face in making my brand work is balancing innovation and consistency between collections.” Of course, the flipside to consistency is monotony. Someone who likes the brand wants familiarity but also longs for novelty. “Which is why there is always a fine line to walk with each collection…Sometimes one achieves the balance and sometimes there is an ‘off’ season, but I constantly try to push myself.» Along with having a successful label, diversifying it by way of launching a range of fragrance or a home décor line seems like a natural progression. Is something on these lines in store for Prabal’s loyalists? “Yes, fragrance is something I have always been very interested in, as it plays a big role in creating the ‘world of’. It allows the consumer to buy into the image a brand creates. The process is also very exciting. You are essentially bottling up memories, experiences, everything that means something to you and offering it to the world,” Prabal shares.

BALLISTIC ON BOLLYWOOD Having lived in India for a while, Prabal was naturally drawn to the opulence of Bollywood. He says that there is an evergrowing presence of Bollywood and the world is beginning to recognise the exquisite faces of Indian cinema.

So what are the Bollywood clichés he wishes to change? “One thing would be the blatant anglophile effect in Hindi movies. The use of what they think are the cool brands, are not really cool in the western countries. In turn, it makes these films seem out of touch. Also, globally, women are playing a larger role and gaining control, power and respect and are not subservient. As someone who celebrates women every day, I would like to see these movies portray the same.” And what quintessential bollywood-isms would he like to leave as is? “The true essence of Bollywood is celebration: Of life, love or sometimes even tragedy. Nobody celebrates or mourns better than Bollywood, which is actually a reflection of the whole Indian culture.” What’s his take on fashion in Hindi cinema? “There are a few magical, celluloid moments that have made an impact on my mind. Rekha in Umrao Jaan, Parveen Babi in her sequined, bejewelled seductress mode, Sridevi in her solid chiffon saris in Chandni, Meena Kumari in Pakeezah pining for her love… I am in awe of these actresses. I also appreciate the way Sanjay Leela Bhansali and Karan Johar use fashion and clothes to tell a story, build a character—a commitment I would like to see more of.

HIGHPOINTS A focus on quality and innovation has placed the designer at the forefront of American fashion. Dressing Michelle Obama and Oprah Winfrey were two of his most memorable moments. “What they represent is what appeals most to me—power, beauty, intellect... It was an absolute honour,” he gushes. But if he had to pick a dream muse? “I’d really love to see my creations on Angelina Jolie. Her story is one of strength and resilience and strongly resonates with our brand ideals.”