Alena Akhmadullina: A Modern Fairytale

Designer Alena Akhmadullina’s designs underline the fact that women don’t need to look like men to succeed in the boardroom. They can be their own knights in a shimmering slip dress.

What do clothes represent? Do they represent a dream? Are they about ambition? There is one designer for whom clothes are all about fairytales. 18 years ago, Alena Akhmadullina, conceived her eponymous label that would go on to pick leaves from various fairytales and reinterpret it for modern women. The designer based in St. Petersburg has been successfully incorporating elements from the Russian national costume in the most inspiring way. Her collections cater to women on the go, who do not wish to compromise on style. Alena opened her concept store in the historical Nikolskaya Street in Moscow. She has also designed costumes for Vancouver Olympics Opening Ceremony (2010) and Russia’s Olympic Team uniform design (2008). Back home, celebrities such as Jacqueline Fernandez and Malaika Arora have been regularly spotted in her creations. Alena speaks to us from her studio in St. Petersburg.

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How would you describe your design sensibility?

I have been doing this for so long, so it’s very difficult for me to say how I feel about the process of designing. This is my job, my profession. I breathe it. It is naturally a part of me.

Were you always inclined towards fashion?

It all started with art school. I was inspired by drawing and composition lessons.

These classes shaped my sense of line, rigidity and softness of graphics, understanding of the combination of colours, textures and transitions. Then, at the university in St. Petersburg, I was influenced by the city’s intellectual colours everywhere and horizontal lines of cityscape. Then there were artists, world’s classics, whose biographies we read. It also had an impact on me. And in the early 2000s, Internet came into our lives.

Are you trained in fashion designing?

When did you decide to start your own label?

At the university, I studied subjects aimed at becoming a designer, for example, the technology of garments, designing, modelling and so on. We were taught to make and sell clothes. Already, while studying at the university, I made collections (under my own name) and it was clear for me that in the future I will create my own brand and business.

Your designs are very feminine. What fabrics and colour palette do you work with?

My brand’s DNA is very complex with a complicated colour palette. And very often fabrics for our collections are coloured to an individual Pantone. For example, in the new pre-summer 2020 collection, there is such a light warm green colour, which we called ‘a sprout’. We also have our own pine colour in the brand’s logos. We strive to use natural fabrics such as silk, wool, cashmere and fur.

Are you into prêt as well as couture? Where are you based out of now?

Each of our collections has a prêt-à- porter and a couture part. 30 per cent of our collections are self-expression and fashion breakthrough, and 70 per cent are commercial. Our studio and showroom are located in Moscow, the manufacturer is based in St. Petersburg.

Do you include elements from your country’s architecture or culture in your design?

The brand’s DNA is based on rethinking an idea of Russian national costume in a modern way. That’s why I constantly refer to Russian fairytales and use references and elements of the Russian costume, such as the symmetrical arrangements, wide sleeves, etc.

What fashion weeks do you regularly showcase at?

Every season, we present our collections in New York and Paris. Now we are highly interested in the Middle East market and would like to have a fashion show in Dubai.

Tell us something about Akhmadullina Dreams.

Akhmadullina Dreams is my second line in the mid-segment. For a long time, I was dreaming of creating beautiful clothes available for any woman. It turns out that this dream is hidden in the name of the brand. I adapt the key features of the first line like silhouettes and prints, for the collection.

India has a very strong sense of craftsmanship that Indian designers work with. Do you have something similar in your country?

Of course… Russia has its own high sense of craftsmanship. Most often we use Russian traditional techniques in our collections such as embroidery, beadwork and gold brocade work.

Celebrities have been spotted wearing your creations, including Indian film stars. How important do you think it is to promote your brand?

Needless to say that for a brand that specialises in the evening gown segment, celebrities being spotted on the red carpet is one of the ways to promote the brand on the world stage. I admire the beauty of Indian women and I’m happy when they choose my dresses.

How can fashion be made more responsible?

Every object from our collections has a story and represents the opposition of fast fashion. This story explains why every item in the collection is not random and accidental. We do a lot of difficult work, for example our fabrics are made specifically for every collection with an individual approach. Our customers do not buy things, they want to buy a story and I’m sure they care about how it was created and pleased with the fact that there is some kind of fairytale behind it.

What are you working on right now?

We are now working on creating spring/summer 2020 collection and it will be influenced by a new fairytale.

From the September 2020 issue of L’Officiel India.