Van Cleef & Arpels’s Mystery Setting

(Clockwise from top) Caresse d’Eole clip from the Midsummer Night’s Dream collection; The Pivoine clip from Van Cleef & Arpels’ Collection; The Montgolfière Mystérieuse ring from the Les Voyages Extraordinaires™ collection ANATOMY OF The Mystery Setting, which places gemstones in a close-set pattern without visible metal connectors, epitomises the Maison’s spirit of innovation and revolutionary jewellery design. & ARPELS’s ORIGIN First conceived in the early 1930s by the innovative genius of Alfred Van Cleef and Julien Arpels, the sophisticated Mystery Setting introduced a new dimension to the world of jewellery. The Maison patented this invention in 1933. The technique has been evolving into more complex forms through the decades.

THE MYTH Referred to as ‘grandes mains’or great hands at the Van Cleef & Arpels workshops, the exceptional technique has precious gemstones set in a close pattern without an evident trace of metal prongs. Though often imitated, the technique remains unrivalled and unmatched, thanks to the incredible skill of the high jewellery atelier.

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SAVOIR-FAIRE With an average of 1200 hours to complete just one piece of a mystery-set jewel, this painstaking process is a testament to the care, dedication and ambition of the Maison’s artistic vision. The completed piece is always a voluptuous three-dimensional jewel, a work of art in both aesthetic design and ingenious craftsmanship. The technique was first applied to objects with flat surfaces, such as the minaudière. Over time, it extended to more complex curved or bombé forms. The Maison also recently started using marquise-cut gems in Mystery Setting for a few spectacular pieces. This latest innovation takes the technique to a new level: the buffed edges of the stones create the impression of a shimmering, uninterrupted surface. Because of the complexity of the process, the Maison produces only a handful of Mystery Set pieces each year. Bejewelled 64 February 2014 february 2014 65 The beauty loot we’re tripping on this month. L’Officiel Liste Huggable Lipcolour M·A·C What makes us drool: The pop colours, the glossy finish and that it leaves your lips moisturised and oh-so-kissable!