Two In One

Back in 2004, sisters, Gauri and Nainika joined hands to start their own label. 15 years later, the duo is one of the leading industry professionals. Having dressed almost all the leading ladies of Bollywood, the designers are hoping for more international red carpet appearances. For our anniversary issue, we got together with the duo to know about their plans for the year 2019, any future collaborations to look out for and fashion in the world of social media.

The label completes 15 years this year. What has changed over the years and what has remained constant?

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We started off in 2004, back then we were very young had a very minimum audience but over the years, we as well as the brand has matured and thus our reach has expanded. In terms of what has remained constant is our design philosophy- classic, timeless pieces, celebrating feminine elegance.

What new can we expect from the label in the year 2019?

We are always doing something new and exciting. In 2019, we are doing a show for Lakme Fashion Week and creating a special collection for Lakme Salon. We follow up with the Blenders Pride Fashion Tour. Then we will also be doing the Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week in March to showcase our Autumn/Winter 2019 collection. In the middle of all this, we will also be launching our Bridal Couture collection. So busy times ahead!

What would you say has been the driving force behind your creativity all these years?

The fact that we start to brainstorm together and eventually design together. Our mutual love for fashion history, 50’s Hollywood movies, red carpet glamour have inspired us and till today we look up to them for inspiration.

Tell us about a few of your favourite collections over the years.

One of the collections that we had done, the red, black and white show that had all these gigantic roses, the Spring/Summer 2016 collection is always a favourite. But the one collection that is close to both our hearts, is the one we did many years ago with various red carpet looks. It is interesting how the media deemed the collection irrelevant back in the day saying nobody in India really wears such silhouettes but immediately after the debut of the collection top actress of the times like Aishwarya, Bipasha and Katrina contacted us directly and were wearing these gowns for the first time.

While tulle and organza remain your favourite choices, your S/S 19 collection had some new entrants in terms of fabric and texture. How did you work on that?

We have always loved using classic fabrics like tulle, organza, chiffons and all kinds of pure silks. We were the first designers to use neoprene in India until it became a fad and we stopped using it altogether. So yes, we are always experimenting and looking for something new, yet we always prefer to use very rich fabrics.

When presenting a collection for Blender's Pride Fashion tour, what differentiates the collection for BPFT from your seasonal collections?

We always have different inspirations and mood boards. But at the end of the day, it all depends on our mood and the kind of fabrics we are using. For a particular collection it could be very young, feminine and flirty: or very formal: or for a third collection could be simple and pret; and then there is always couture and embroidered. Depending on what is the mood and requirement of the collection we will work in that way.

What are the key elements for you when designing a collection each season?

One thing is the fabrics. You will always start your work backwards and if you are using a new fabric then it will decide how the collection will take shape. Then there is always the designer’s mood and the colour palette for the collection. If for a previous collection we used pastels then for this one we will probably move to rich jewel tones. Gauri and I also like to stick to a theme and base our garments surrounding that one theme instead of doing multiple different looks.

What can we expect from your A/W 2019 collection?

We are still caught up with Lakme show and BPT so we haven’t really got down to sit on our Autumn/Winter 2019 showcase that’s due in March. But we have had discussions that we want to do a more high-end collection. So you expect more embroidery and a semi-couture look coming up.

For you, where does the Indian fashion industry stand globally?

The Indian fashion industry is gaining prominence globally and there are several Indian designers who have made it big internationally. We think is just about a matter of time before a lot of Indian labels will be out there on all the major International portals like Net-a-Porter and Pero Moda. But the key to an Indian label making big internationally is to have a global appeal. You can’t be really doing just Indian silhouettes, it has to be pret and western.

Some Indian and International designers whose works you like or look to for inspiration.

There are a lot of international labels that we love especially those we have grown up loving like Valentino and Christian Dior, who are the great masters of fashion. Then again the works of Givenchy and Balenciaga back in their days. There are many new brands out there catering to modern needs like Erdem, Delpozo, Off-white and Simone Rocha that we love.

Then amongst the homegrown designers, there is always Rohit Bal. There is no one like him- the biggest fashion genius, his clothes are just about for loyalty. Then there is always Sabyasachi who is just phenomenal.

Your works have always been inspired by European aesthetics. How do you bring a new vibe in each collection and yet make it a signature look of the label?

So we travel a lot and often find our inspirations from our pictures clicked on the trip or any peculiar find. So once we were in Greece and there was a paper napkin, and we designed our entire collection based on it. It was a very holiday mood collection. A lot of it comes from travel and what we see. A lot of it comes from our garden. Our mother loves to plant big flowers and we have always taken photographs of flowers and replicated them in our collections over the years.

Back in 2017, the label introduced a new line of shoes. Are there any similar ventures into accessory or beauty that you are looking forward to?

Nothing as of now, but yes, hopefully in the future let’s see.

Brands or labels alike are collaborating with each other today. Any collaborations that we can expect from the label in 2019?

We are in talks with a few people, so something might just be happening in the future. But yes collaborations are always fun because it means that you are not only creating based on your design philosophy but also merging with another brand that is completely different from fashion. You are marrying two brands to create something new. Also like our collaboration with Koovs, it helped us widen our audience to reach out to those who earlier weren’t able to afford Gauri and Nainika, and could now thanks to Koovs. It was a great feeling to dress so many people.

Social Media brings in a new set of clientele. How does the label ensure that these new needs are met?

A strong digital team is the best solution. When people are messaging you on various social media channels with queries it is the team that guides them to the best channel- whether they can place an order directly with us or at an online store or from a store closer to them. It is all about engaging and constantly interacting with your audience.

Many designers have moved away from seasonal runway showcases to social media launches. Is that something you will consider or do in the near future?

Yes, why not you have to keep up with the times. Social media helps to reach out to so many people in one shot and eventually people look at the images. But then again runway shows will never lose their charm since it’s live with an audience and the reactions are immediate. So whether you do a look book shoot or an online launch both ways have an equal impact in terms of reaching out to a wider audience.

One celebrity that you haven't dressed so far and hope to dress in 2019?

We have dressed almost all Indian celebrities so maybe International celebrities like Cate Blanchett or even say Beyonce!

How do you think this power-duo collaboration between you and Nainika(/Gauri) is going strong over the years?

We were lucky that as sisters, our bond is so strong. We have always got along, have the same tastes and preferences in literally everything. If you ask either Gauri or me to select a piece individually, we end up picking the same thing. We are really in sync in terms of our choices and we love what we do. The important is to never stop creating, to always do something new or exciting besides just four collections, to do tours or creative collaborations with brands. The key is to constantly innovate but at the same time staying true to the brand and its design philosophy.

Attitudes in today's times are shifting and accepting powerful women entrepreneurs like you. What do you have to say to young ladies who look up to you for inspiration?

At the end of the day being designers at a label also mean running a business for most of us. So you are not just a creative director of your label but also contribute and get yourself involved in the business side as well.