Ticking Gets a Twist

From Chanel's ocean-colored reimagination of a contemporary classic to Hublot's emerald statement piece, luxury watchmaking is living its moment of avant-garde material innovation, retro throwback iconicity, and unlikely muse power.

Ticking Gets a Twist

Whatever time these watches show, they promise to deliver exquisite fine horology which is both high-concept and high-style. Look closely at these season's hero releases that rethink the meaning of wearing time like a charm.

Chanel J12 in Blue Ceramic

Chanel J12 in Blue Ceramic

Twenty-five years after revolutionizing fashion watches with its introduction, Chanel honors the J12's legacy with a theatrical new reveal: the J12 Bleu. Initially launched in black ceramic, the J12 has been one of the most acclaimed fashion watches of the modern era. It's back now in a striking matte blue high-tech ceramic—lightweight, scratch-resistant, silky smooth, and hypoallergenic, but notoriously hard to achieve in an even tone.

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Since its Y2K launch, the J12 has been a fashion favorite among stylish women and men. But Chanel hasn't simply relied on its fashion heritage. With the J12 Bleu, Chanel demonstrates once again that it's not only a fashion house—it's an emerging power in modern watchmaking.

Piaget Polo 79 in White Gold

Piaget Polo 79 in White Gold

As its yellow gold antecedent, the white gold rendition of the new Polo 79 is a curved case of 38mm with a slender 7.35mm thickness. The classic gadroons, in gleeful contrast to horizontally brushed surrounds, are seen to run from case, through dial, and onto bracelet to create an undifferentiated, almost monolithic look.

The dial itself is simple, with a tone-on-tone minutes track strewn with pearl-like markers of varying size and dauphine-shaped gold hands. The bracelet, seamlessly integrated into the case, tapers slightly to a triple folding clasp discreetly concealed in its form. It is not only pleasingly visual but also very tactile and flexible, delivering a sleek, modern feel. Functionality and luxury are fused with a resourceful design: the bracelet can be assembled or disassembled easily with the help of screws on the interior.

Oris Big Crown 34mm with Diamonds

Oris Big Crown 34mm with Diamonds

In a bold and perhaps unexpected nod to the forever glamorous Miss Piggy, Oris presents a lively new interpretation of its toughest silhouette: the ProPilot X. As ever firmly rooted in its aviation greats such as the Big Crown Pointer Date, Oris pushed the envelope in 2019 with the 44mm ProPilot X—a cutting-edge, stealth-look pilot's watch driven by skeletonised Calibre 115. This design progression was followed by the slimmer 39mm ProPilot X, with the in-house Calibre 400, which was famously given a tongue-in-cheek spin in 2023 with the Kermit Edition. The ProPilot X new edition takes it bold with the outrageous personality in the guise of a hot pink dial—a shock of color set against a case matched with a 12 o'clock lab-grown baguette-cut diamond. It is boldly outrageous, wonderfully original, and true both to character and to the craftsmanship of modern watchmaking.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

The Tambour Convergence reinterprets Louis Vuitton's legendary drum case with a leaner, more refined profile. Just 8mm thick, it features sculpted lugs that are separately machined from the case, polished on top and micro-sandblasted on the interior surfaces for extreme contrast in texture. The horizontally brushed sides of the middle drum are contrasted with the completely hand-polished top, which, while lovely, must be handled with care due to its delicate finish. Measured at a consciously smaller 37mm, the Convergence embraces the contemporary trend for small, design-focused luxury watches. There are two versions: one in classic 18k rose gold with matching hours and minutes discs, paired with a camel calf leather strap lined in beige and finished in yellow stitching. The more sophisticated other is fashioned from 950 platinum with a top facet paved with 795 snow-set diamonds in seven weights and took 32 hours of careful setting.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green Saxem

Hublot takes its bold color saga to the next level with the release of the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM. This year's model features a rich emerald-green case constructed from polished SAXEM—a highly colored, high-resistance material that combines the hardness of sapphire with the brilliance of rare earth.

The angular, multi-piece case measures 44mm across and 14.4mm thick, with 30m water resistance. Signature Hublot details like the bezel's six titanium screws, integrated lugs, and sapphire crystals front and rear remain in place to confirm the brand's signature design language. The titanium crown is blackened to match the skeletonized movement, which is visible via the tinted sapphire dial. The watch comes with green transparent or lined black rubber straps, secured using a black folding clasp or Velcro buckle.

Its neon predecessor's bright yellow model from last year, this emerald-green version takes it to the next level, offering a daring combination of high-tech engineering and daring style.

Team L’Officiel India

The L’Officiel India editorial team.

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