Poetry In Perfume

Master perfumer Thierry Wasser has created a place for himself in history. The nose behind some of the most iconic fragrances of our times is also the first non-Guerlain in five generations to take over the reins at the perfumeries of the Maison.

His life is the stuff dreams are made of. Fragrant dreams. Swiss-born Thierry Wasser studied at the Givaudan Perfumery School in Geneva, Switzerland, and was then taken on as a perfumer by Givaudan. A few years later, he moved on to Firmenich in New York, where his creations such as CK One Summer, Dior Addict, Diesel Fuel for Life for Her and Lancôme Hypnôse attained cult status. In 2008, Jean-Paul Guerlain picked him as his successor as the nose at the Maison. It was the first time ever that a man with a surname other than Guerlain had laid hands on the prized Formula Book!

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In the spirit of the rich olfactory legacy he inherited as well as built for himself, Thierry Wasser continues to create super luxe, avant-garde, legendary fragrances. As a purveyor of fine fragrances said, “If compared to cars, his ‘yet to be discovered’ amazing scents are not designed for Toyota, but for Bugatti.”

What inspired you to become a perfumer?

It happened by chance. I was always interested in species, plants, nature. Around the time I was eighteen, I saw an article about the Givaudan School, which really drew my attention. I wrote a letter to the director, was accepted to give the entrance tests, passed, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Why the house of Guerlain? They picked you for your talent, but would you say, in some manner you picked them, too?

It is a dream for every perfumer to work for Guerlain. So, of course, I wanted to work for them. But it was definitely them picking me.

What is it like to be the scion of an empire you weren’t really born into?

It is quite an honour to be the fifth generation of the Guerlain perfumers. I share with my predecessors an infinite love for raw materials, especially the ones that compose the Guerlinade. And, like them, I bring my passion and ideas to the Guerlain fragrances I make.

What’s the secret of the Guerlinade?

Its secret lies in the fact that it is never the same: the proportion of iris, jasmine, vanilla, bergamot, tonka bean and rose—the chief ingredients—changes from one perfume to another; and yet it is instantly recognisable.

Which, according to you, are the most potent ingredients ever?

The raw materials and their quality are important, but it is not only about them. The way they are assembled and how they constitute a perfume makes them potent.

How important is packaging to a fragrance?

It is the final touch, and so, should somehow be linked to the idea or emotion conveyed by the perfume. In fact, the bottle can become as iconic as the perfume: Take a look at the bottles of Shalimar, Heure Bleue and Eau de Cologne Impériale, just to name a few.

What is a signature Thierry Wasser perfume like?

I am an optimistic and happy person, and my perfumes reflect that... They are usually bright and luminous.

What inspires you to create?

A trip, a landscape, an encounter, an artwork, anything... everything!

The creation you are the most proud of?

Guerlain Idylle.

What is the scent of a beautiful woman like?

There is no such thing as the scent of a beautiful woman. You should like the perfume, and the perfume should like you; and this works for every person.

From the May 2014 issue of L’Officiel India.