The Unusual Suspects

The beauty market lexicon has some spanking new entrants. Give your beauty closet—and yourself—a makeover, with our pick of 10 of-the-moment ingredients that work to give you your best skin ever.

Synthetic snake venom, retinols and glycols can take a hike. Backed by latest research and clinical trials, the beauty industry has a new lot of It ingredients. From leading spas to coveted concoctions on the shelves, these superstars are being used to enhance radiance, boost collagen, delay signs of ageing, banish stretch marks and purify skin. While the names may raise an eyebrow or two, the benefits of these new beauty A-listers far outnumber the reservations. And the best part: This crème de la crème of modern-day skincare is firmly rooted in nature.

L’Officiel India DigitalRead L’Officiel India in the digital libraryEvery issue and every cover story, on TCG Media.Read now

Saké

Japan’s favourite liquor comes packed with a host of skin benefits, particularly the enzyme Pitera formed during the fermentation of yeast in saké. SK-II, a premier Japanese skincare brand has patented Pitera, which has become quite a hit with celebrities like Katie Holmes and Cate Blanchett. “Also known as rice wine, it contains kojic acid, a potent compound that decreases melanin production,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, dermatologist, Skinfiniti Skin & Laser Clinic, Mumbai. “As a result, it lightens age spots, tans and other types of pigmentation like freckles and melasma.” Saké also helps prevent premature ageing by retaining moisture in your skin and is an ideal astringent, as it contains alcohol and has anti-bacterial properties. It can effectively rid you of acne-causing bacteria, too, adds Dr Sharad. We’ll drink to that!

We recommend: SK-II Facial Treatment Mask (1), ₹7,550; Fresh Black Tea Instant Perfecting Mask (2), approximately ₹5,309.

Volcanic ash

Volcanic ash has long been known for its anti-viral, anti-bacterial, anti-yeast and disinfectant properties. In recent times, the clay that is formed when water mixes with the ash has become a popular ingredient in exfoliators and masks. “Volcanic ash, particularly in the form of a clay known as sodium bentonite clay or volcanic ash clay, exfoliates, firms and draws deeply embedded impurities and toxins out of the pores,” says Dr Varun Katyal, consultant dermatologist and wellness expert, The Skin Centre, New Delhi. It has remarkable cleansing properties that work in conjunction with its high rate of absorption to provide effective solutions for acne, cellulite, sun damage, stretch marks, wrinkles and blemishes, he adds.

We recommend: M.A.C Mineralize Volcanic Ash Exfoliator (1), ₹2,250; Innisfree Jeju Volcanic Pore Clay Mask (2), ₹850.

Baobab oil

Derived from the seeds of the native eastern and southern African baobab tree, baobab oil is helpful in treating dry and damaged skin. Rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, it is also useful for hair and its soothing properties help treat eczema and psoriasis, says Dr Katyal. Baobab oil is also a champion for improving skin elasticity and encouraging regeneration of skin cells, he adds. The quick-absorbing oil is non-greasy and does not clog the skin’s pores. We suggest you keep a bottle on your dresser to rev up dry skin in a jiffy.

We recommend: Phyto Phytospecific Baobab Oil (3), ₹2,450; Shea Terra Organics Baobab & Coconut Water Smoothing Vita-Enzyme Facial Masque (4), approximately ₹1,700.

Wild yams

You may run away from this starchy staple while on a diet, but wild yams are quite the hit with revered skincare brands. Yams have high levels of vitamin A and beta-carotene—compounds that have anti-ageing benefits, reveals Dr Sharad. Yams also contain high amount of antioxidants from vitamin C, which has an important role to play in keeping the skin young, enhancing immune function and wound healing, she adds. A lesser known home remedy for dark circles, yams have natural bleaching properties and since they also stimulate collagen production, they can combat those crows’ feet on your peepers as well.

We recommend: Amorepacific Line Modifier Intensive Wrinkle Treatment (5), approximately ₹9,050; La Prairie Cellular Radiance Concentrate Pure Gold (6), approximately ₹41,000; Dermalogica Intensive Eye Repair (7), ₹3,275.

Wakame

This unique Japanese sea kelp blocks an enzyme in the body called hyaluronidase, thus protecting against the loss of hyaluronic acid, vital for the skin’s elasticity and youthfulness, explains Dr Katyal. Low levels of this acid can lead to sagging skin and wrinkles. Wakame can moisturise the skin, heal irritations and inflammation, get rid of dark circles, reduce appearance of wrinkles, soften rough spots and even protect the skin against damage caused by ultraviolet rays, he adds. Wakame also contains high levels of antioxidants, protecting the skin from harmful free radicals, says Dr Sharad. The edible seaweed is, therefore, an all-rounder. Applause, please!

We recommend: Boscia Tsubaki Deep Hydration Sleeping Mask (8), approximately ₹2,100; H2O+ Sea Mineral Cleanser (9), ₹1,000.

Rice water

Rice water may just be Asia’s best kept beauty secret—no offence to green tea and saké. The Geishas were known to use it to cleanse their face and hair. It is rich in inositol that helps promote cell growth, slow down the ageing process and stimulate blood flow, says Dr Sharad. This helps tighten pores and bring about a glow to the face. It makes for an excellent skin toner that keeps the skin smooth and bright, she adds. In addition, rice water also has moisturising, antioxidant and UV-absorbing properties. Its soothing nature makes it an effective remedy for rashes, and a must-have for those with sensitive skin.

We recommend: The Face Shop Rice Water Bright Cleansing Foam (10), ₹3,383; Bobbi Brown Hydrating Intense Night Cream (11), ₹3,530.

Red tea

With 50 times the antioxidant content of green tea, red tea is the go-to ingredient for happy, healthy skin. Red tea contains antioxidants called flavonoids, which provide protection from ultraviolet light, helping prevent and reduce sun damage. Red tea may also help in targeting acne as initial studies suggest that it has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, says Dr Katyal. It is loaded with alpha hydroxy acids, which makes the skin glow, reveals Dr Sharad. Phenyl pyretic acid also marks its presence in red tea, which can help those suffering from psoriasis and eczema.

We recommend: The Nature’s Co. Red and Green Tea Sunscreen Lotion (12), ₹375; Ole Henriksen African Red Tea See The Difference Serum (13), ₹2,900; Clinique Repairwear Intensive Night Cream (14), approximately ₹3,200.

Charcoal

If close encounters with pollution are the bane of your skin’s existence, charcoal may as well be black magic to you. Activated charcoal helps in drawing oil, dirt and other harmful substances from clogged pores, helping you achieve a flawless complexion, says Dr Katyal. It is also known to fight acne, he adds. It has extremely high adsorption (not absorption) powers, that works by electrically attracting toxins. Because of its high detoxifying qualities, it has begun to be widely used in men’s skincare. If it is able to work on their thick skin, imagine the wonders it can do on our delicate skin.

We recommend: Lush Coalface Cleanser (15), ₹655; Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask to Clear Pores (16), approximately ₹1,500.

Dragon blood

Before you call up PETA, we’ll have you know that dragon blood is a red-coloured resin from the Amazonian croton lechleri tree. The sap is rich in protective antioxidant phenols and anti-inflammatory compounds, which help protect skin cells and reduce redness and swelling, says Dr Katyal. Now, it is in the spotlight due to a group of compounds called proanthocyanidins, which actually repair collagen, making it the new anti-ageing wonder, he adds. And, of course, no mythical creatures are harmed in the making of these products.

We recommend: Rodial Dragon Blood Sculpting Gel (17), ₹7,500; Peter Thomas Roth Laser-free Resurfacing Eye Serum (18), approximately ₹3,500.

Malachite extract

The extract of green malachite, a natural, copper-containing semi-precious stone, was largely used in makeup products until recently, primarily due to its fine texture. The semi-precious stone, once ground, is dissolved and neutralised for maximum impact. It is a mineral extract with strong antioxidant and detoxifying qualities. A general skin protector, it has also been said to enhance the production of collagen and elastin, says Dr Katyal. The copper, found in trace amounts in malachite, regulates warmth and activates the skin’s several anabolic processes. Rich in several skin-conditioning minerals, it brightens a drab complexion.

We recommend: La Mer Fluide de La Mer SPF 30 (19), ₹6,600; Sisley Eye Contour Mask (20), approximately ₹9,115.

From the May 2014 issue of L’Officiel India.