The New Icons

The latest addition to the Reine De Naples collection is another striking timepiece that echoes the watchmaker’s ethos of serious innovations masked beneath a classical appearance.

ORIGINE The Reine De Naples collection is extremely important in horological history as it was inspired by an early bracelet watch created by AL Breguet for Caroline, the Queen of Naples. The timepieces in this collection have always been noted for lapsing into poetry because of the unique shape of the case, which symbolises the origin of life. In the Reine de Naples models, Breguet expresses its high regard for women through both artistic and mechanical skills.

L’Officiel India DigitalRead L’Officiel India in the digital libraryEvery issue and every cover story, on TCG Media.Read now

STYLE Among other novelties launched at Baselworld 2014, the Reine de Naples Jour/Nuit Haute Joaillerie timepiece stood out because of its innovation and classic elegance.It beautifully represents the alternation between night and day by the rotation of a disc bearing symbols of both halves of the 24-hour cycle. It is also equipped with a rotating escapement system that is clearly visible on the dial. This timepiece is proof that mechanics can be fascinating beyond the gender barrier. SAVOIR FAIRE This exceptionally complicated gem-set watch is adorned with over 400 diamonds. The 42.05mm x 34 mm 18-carat white gold timepiece features a bezel and case band set with 131 baguette diamonds, a flange set with 73 brilliant-cut diamonds, a crown set with a briolette diamond and an attachment paved with a frosting of 35 brilliant-cut diamonds. The 18-carat gold dial feature an additional 147 brilliant-cut diamonds. This watch is fitted with the movement made exclusively for the Reine de Naples collection. Apart from indicating the hours and minutes it animates a whimsical representation of the hours of the day and night on a second dial.

BEJEWELLED 74 JUNE 2014 JUNE 2014 75 This year at Baselworld, Jaquet Droz released this majestic limited edition timepiece, which showcases their horological expertise in the virtuoso technique of Paillonné enameling.

ORIGINE The Paillonné enameling is a marriage between azure and gold. Its design is extremely delicate. The Jaquet Droz artisans have excelled in this ornamental technique since the 18th century, and continue to make dials with the same meticulous care using the Grand Feu enamel process. The dials come to life after several firings at temperatures that can approach 1000°C. Only the trained eye can detect when the colour is perfectly consistent and when the motif, picked out in gold paillons and placed with surgical precision, has set under the translucent enamel fondant.

STYLE This Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée pays tribute to an art that has endured for three centuries. The watchmaker released three exclusive limited edition timepieces with the motif being reinvented on each one. The delicate pattern plays with more circular forms to evoke the floral theme favoured by Jaquet Droz.

SAVOIR FAIRE This particular timepiece has a diametre of 39mm, features an 18-carat red gold case and is adorned with 30 jewels. One of the highlights of the watch is the individual limited serial number engraved on the back. The timepiece is powered with Jaquet Droz 2653, self-winding mechanical movement. It is a limited edition of eight pieces. The Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée is not only a demonstration of the expertise found in the Jaquet Droz artisan workshops, it also proves that beauty created by the human hand transcends time. PETITE HEURE MINUTE PAILLONNÉE BY JAQUET DROZ BEJEWELLED 76 JUNE 2014 This year, TAG Heuer celebrates the evolution of the V4 revolution by presenting the Monaco V4 Tourbillon, featuring an astounding technological innovation.

ORIGINE In 2004, TAG Heuer unveiled a concept watch that aimed at changing the course of watchmaking. The Monaco V4 became the world’s first watch with belt drives, linear mass and ball bearings. Five years later the concept turned into a reality. In 2009, TAG Heuer stunned the horology world by unveiling a fully-commercialised production model of the Monaco V4. The breakthrough came as a result of five years of intensive research by the brand’sha ute horo log erie engineers to overcome the last stumbling blocks—most important being the successful development of ultra-thin and ultra-resistant transmission belts.

STYLE From the world’s first watch driven by belts to the world’s first tourbillon driven by belts, the latest Monaco V4 Tourbillon is a true star. Building on its top-secret development of transmission belts no thicker than a single hair, TAG Heuer has taken its avant garde creation to the next level. This timepiece juxtaposes their patented belt technology with one of the most emblematic complication of watchmaking—the tourbillon.

SAVOIR FAIRE The fully-patented Monaco V4 Tourbillon breaks all accepted watchmaking codes and conventions. The timepiece further complicates the most intricate and iconic complication of haute horlogerie by using a micro-belt to drive the tourbillon. One of the highlights is the absolute fluidity of its rotation. The timepiece is equipped with an automatic linear rewinding system, and the mass is guided by a linear railroad instead of a traditional rotating system. The four notched micro-thin (0.07mm) transmission belts—the design and engineering of which remain one of the best-kept secrets in watchmaking—create a very efficient shock absorbing system. Another first is that the barrels are held and rotated on ball bearings. The Monaco V4 Tourbillon features exclusive materials including spacegrade black titanium.

MONACO V4 TOURBILLON BY TAG HEUER JUNE 2014 77 Oriental and Egyptian inspirations and symbols come together in a contemporary fashion in this must-have by the Italian haute joallerie maison.

ORIGINE A tribute to the glamorous celebrities of old Hollywood, the necklace is a part of Bulgari’s Medium High Diva Collection. The collection is named after the diva-esque movie stars like Ava Gardener, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren, who were often spotted wearing the brand’s jewels in the ‘50s and ‘60s.

STYLE Crafted in pink gold, the necklace plays with a geometric pattern that is inspired by Elizabeth Taylor's makeup in the film Cleopatra. The fan motifs in the piece represent the big fans used in the palace of the Queen of the Nile. They also bring an Oriental touch to this pink gold dazzler that is at once chic and casual. SAVOIR FAIRE The demi pavé diamonds stand out even more in the 18-carat pink gold Diva Necklace. The 38-45 cm necklace balances geometric and rounded shapes delicately. The small fans come in succession in an almost hypnotic rhythm, with every alternate fan studded with diamonds while the others have been left bare. The motif has also been used to create scattered petals on either side of the piece. The eyes naturally follow the geometric transformations. The fan motifs, which transform into a flower in the necklace, continues in the matching ring, earrings and bracelet.

DIVA PINK GOLD NECKLACE BY BVLGARI BEJEWELLED 78 JUNE 2014 White gold and diamond twirl around your wrist, reinterpreting an old favourite of the maison—the iconic snake.

ORIGINE Part of the maison’s bestiary since 1888, the serpent finds a new interpretation this year in the Serpent Bohème Toi et Moi bangle bracelet. Yes, the serpent is a very important and iconic symbol for the brand since founder Frédéric Boucheron presented the first serpentine necklace to his wife on the occasion of their crystal anniversary. The Boucheron Serpent collection has been around since 1968, embodying the spirit of bohemian femininity. The collection was officially relaunched in 2013 and was such a success that new pieces were added to it this year. Created in 1858, the brand was the first jeweller to mark its presence at the prestigious Place Vendome square in Paris.

STYLE Set with pavé diamonds in white gold, the bangle bracelet coils around the wearer’s wrist beautifully. The two ends of the bracelet are an abstract representation of the shape of the serpent’s head, which cross to symbolize the lasting bond between two lovers. That is why the bangle bracelet has been named Toi et Moi—French for ‘you and me’. SAVOIR FAIRE One of the most talked-about jewellery pieces at Baselworld, the snow-set bangle bracelet is a sight for sore eyes. The 2.56 carats of the 64 round diamonds crowned with white gold beads along the edges, brings the serpent heads to life. The bangle bracelet has 68.40 gm of white gold that has been fashioned by Boucheron’s exceptional craftsmen to create an illusion of fluidity. Tiny scales have been embossed with precision along the length of the bangle to give a delicate grained texture to mimic the glistening skin of the serpent. SERPENT BOHÈME TOI ET MOI BANGLE BRACELET BY BOUCHERON JUNE 2014 79 Reminiscent of a dreamy, romantic walk by Lake Geneva, classical design takes centrestage in this offering. Let there be moonlight, we say!

ORIGINE Not even a decade old in haute joallerie, Shawish is already making its presence felt, creating a niche with their innovative designs. With its headquarters in Geneva in Switzerland, the brand was the world’s first to introduce an all-diamond ring with a whopping 150-carats to its credit. The Moonlight necklace was officially showcased at Baselworld 2014 and its feminine grace got it a lot of attention from jewellery aficionados and critics alike.

STYLE The reflection of the moon on the sparkling waters of Lake Geneva play muse to the Moonlight necklace. And what better way to do it than combining gleaming white gold with sparkling diamonds to depict that. The vine-like intertwining curls lend a fantastical and dream-like quality to this piece. We love the large diamond drops at the centre and bottom for the mysterious old-world Victorian charm they add to the piece. SAVOIR FAIRE The pavé diamond-covered necklace has a total carat weight of 66.85 carats. The 4,356 round-brilliant cut and pear cut diamonds have been set in 18-carat white gold. Interestingly, the 128 gm of white gold curls are well-rounded to perfectly represent the moonlight bouncing off the rippling waters of Lake Geneva. Also in the collection are the Moonlight earrings and ring.

MOONLIGHT NECKLACE BY SHAWISH BEJEWELLED 80 JUNE 2014