The Boot Loot

What do Winston Churchill, Prince Charles, Queen Victoria, Andy Warhol and Calvin Klein have in common? Well, it’s John Lobb shoes! One would never have expected that a crippled farmer’s son would perfect the art of traditional shoe-making in the 1800s. Or that it would survive the onslaught of trendy times.

The handmade and bespoke beauties are created painstakingly, with the utmost attention to precision—190 strict steps are followed for each piece (clicking, sewing, skiving…). The casts made of beech wood are almost objects of art. Taken over under the Hermès umbrella in 1976, from where they launched the ready-to-wear shoes in Paris, the bespoke services by John Lobb Bootmaker continue in Northampton, England, even today with prices touching `10 lakh for a pair.

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The almost 175-year-old brand that has been making the finest shoes for gentlemen since 1866 in London and 1902 in Paris is ready to step into India with their made-to-measure men’s shoes and a store in the offing. They come armed with crocodile and lizard skin, and 150 styles. Interestingly, India has had a wholesome association with the brand since the 1920s when John Lobb created splendid pieces for the Indian maharajas. Thomas Collette, commercial director, John Lobb, tells us that what makes this luxe brand 38 August 2014 extraordinary is not just its enviable celebrity clientele, (which also includes the controversial Libyan leader Gaddafi), but what goes into making each shoe. Collette says, “We source full grain skins from the best tanneries around the world, with almost 90 per cent not making the cut, as light must reflect off the shoe after it is made. And yes, it must be from the animal’s posterior where you find the strongest and most supple leather for uppers.” He further elaborates, “For our celebrity clients we have provisions for special lining and stitching to give it that extra edge.”

With the brand’s largest selling pieces in classic blacks, dark tans and light browns, their ‘by request’ service in India will offer shoes ranging from `45,000 to `6 lakh. But what they won’t be bringing, unfortunately, is the charming Winner Sport MK I shoe. The pair was a result of an artistic collaboration between two British greats— Aston Martin’s director of design Marek Reichman and John Lobb’s creative director Andrés Hernández. “We are on top of the pyramid with formal shoes, but we wanted to make a mark in casual ones, too, in keeping with the fashion-oriented market,” says Collette. “Hence, this association fell in place. It did exceedingly well, and last year, we launched the second one in this series, the MK II with calfskin, lined with sheepskin.” Interestingly, India has had a wholesome association with the brand since the 1920s when John Lobb created splendid pieces for the Indian maharajas. The brand has also enjoyed undisputed British royal patronage—Prince Charles is a big fan, along with Lady Camilla Parker, Duchess of Cornwell. John Lobb has enjoyed undisputed British royal patronage—Prince Charles is a big fan, along with Lady Camilla Parker, Duchess of Cornwell. And if this isn’t enough to get the ball rolling, Daniel Craig, while playing British secret service agent 007, wore a pair of black John Lobb Luffield shoes with a hand-finished beveled waist, in the James Bond thriller Casino Royale. So are you getting a pair for your Mr Bond?

August 2014 39 Phillip 2: Finely punched, this elegant toecap lace-up is a timeless piece and also most lovable, as it is executed in museum calf leather.

William II: This shoe was crafted in 1945 by William Lobb when he invented the double buckle shoe, which has been widely copied by other brands.

City II: It is an Oxford-style modern take on a classic, with double-stitched toecap seam. And like all John Lobb shoes, this too, will last you a lifetime! Collette selects