Stylish Strokes

Gauri and Nainika, SS 2014.

July 2014 41 This may not be a new trend but, right now, it is virtually impossible to ignore the overwhelming presence of art in fashion collections. Spectacular graphics and striking prints are everywhere. Some brands, like Prada, use this overwhelming style to transform an understated fashion show into an exhibition of wearable art. Then there are other brands like Chanel, who transform the runway into one big contemporary art gallery.

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The good news for amateurs and contemporary art aficionados is that the technique of actually painting things has come back into focus. We no longer have to suffer minimalist concepts, risqué installations and other aesthetics that are hard to translate into clothes. The message is now pretty clear: the best artist is the one who is finally able to translate his artistic vision into wearable clothes. And designers from all over have begun to understand the message that fashion is not just any form of art. It is, above all, an applied art.

A luxe affair with art The fashion fraternity bids goodbye to the sombre trends of the past few seasons, only to welcome these radical, optimistic and delightfully colourful creations. A perfect example of this is Karl Lagerfeld’s rainbow motif for Chanel. At the house of Céline, Phoebe Philo seeks inspiration in primitive forms of graffiti, just like the photographer Brassaï has done all throughout his career. Satya Paul's recent collection pays homage to the ancient art of Sumi-e, a 2000-year-old style of Japanese ink brush painting, characterised by brushstrokes that are fluid yet precise--this painting style finds its bearings in the Samurai code of conduct and Buddhist principles, where digitally-rendered brush strokes aim at depicting the spirit of Sumi-e rather than a product or image. Miuccia Prada takes an even more radical approach with her political and feminist mural-style prints, which are seen all over in Los Angeles, Mexico and South America. The exotic, tribal appeal of this collection is what renders it so wearable. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac experiments with pictorial references in his collection. This season, he concentrates on street-inspired graphic designs, which he transposes onto dresses. And the fashion fraternity has been quick to welcome this refreshing trend. Miu Miu’s motifs of kittens, tropical fish and flowers are examples of this arty wave.

Tropic sculptures on you This summer, we will see a wave of tropical floral prints in collections. Hermès’ collection is inspired by the works of artists Gauguin and Douanier Satya Paul’s art (bag) and Dolce & Gabbana (platform sandals).

Pop art at Yazbukey (clutch) and Walter Steiger (sandals).

Saint Laurent par Hedi Slimane JC de Castelbajac Chanel Manish Arora Nida Mahmood 42 July 2014 PHOTOs marcio madeira, dr Rousseau. Flowers are also being showcased in three dimensions resulting in a bunch of optical illusions. Drapes, structures, flounces and ruched elements—in a variety of rich fabrics—add charm to creations and make them appear like something right out of a sculptor’s workshop. Confirming the onset of tropical prints, designers Gauri and Nainika bring to you a holiday collection inspired by the charm and grace of colourful Amalfi coast. “For our collection, we’ve used coast-inspired prints—refreshing and summery, with a holiday/resort feel,” says Nainika. The Quirky take Surreal art, impressionist art, modern art, pop art are everywhere... On clothes, shoes, bags, at Manish Arora, Dolce and Gabanna, Satya Paul, Masaba Gupta and Walter Steiger. This season, Satya Paul’s collection explores various degrees of hand pressure in ink wash printing, creating motifs like flowers and birds, finding their bearings in popular iconography. Masaba Gupta, fashion director at Satya Paul, says, “Bright colours, bold prints are all the rage this summer and are so much fun to wear, even at work. Playful brushstrokes on sheer shirts and feminine midi skirts can be paired with subtle coordinates and summer wedges. Alternatively, you could highlight everyday wear with a printed bag.” And then there is Manish Arora’s take on art. He marries Art Deco beadwork with flapper-esque tassels. Lotus blossoms explode onto monochrome checks. Embellished sweatshirts are tossed over drop waist mini-dresses, with elaborate detailing and psychedelic colour.

Nida Mahmood’s candy-colour, comic-twist fashion, inspired by Indian cinema and pop art, add quirk and a hippie feel to her clothes. The House of Masaba, once again regales with her ingenious, bold prints sprinkled with an innovative graphic twist. Other silhouettes, too, celebrate the decadent spirit of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, but with a sporty twist. Gauri and Nainika’s take this season is little less pop and a little more art, inspired by vintage Hollywood and comic book heroes, colourful iconography and cartoon capers. Gauri and Nainika say, “The garment is more like a canvas, with portraits and landscapes.” The Baroque sculpture shoes of Dolce and Gabanna remind us of the ornate artwork at Venice. And Walter Steiger’s strappy graffiti sandals set the quirky tone of Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida.

Designers all over are taking a plunge into art to dish out distinct fashion. And now, with a splash of colour, the fashion scape is turning way more interesting—and artsy.

and Sophia Webster (shoes).

Nature-inspired creations at Miu Miu (boots)

Gauri & Nainika Céline Octavio Pizarro Andrew GN Masaba July 2014 43