Runway Revelry

Elegant over sexy. Dramatic over shocking. Culture over rebellion. History over futurism. This season, the designers surprise us with delightful trends on the runways of the recently concluded India Resort Fashion Week and the 9th edition of the Seagram’s Blenders Pride Fashion Tour.

Royal Stories

The 9th edition of the Seagram’s Blenders Pride Fashion Tour drew its inspirations from corners as eclectic and enigmatic as the Kumbh Mela, pages of poetry and history, and even novel packaging concepts. The thread that weaves them together is the thread of culture, which comes in myriad colours. The result: fashion trends that have stepped out of the boundaries of the usual and just-pretty.

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A Historical Presence: Rocky S

We love Rocky’s opulent red carpet collection in black that brings back the magnificence of the medieval ages. A delightful amalgamation of glamour, style, music and fashion, this splendid collection oozes with enigmatic affluence, woven in through the beadwork and sequins, embodied in textures and layers of fabric. The colour black is used with such a flourish that each contour, shade, hue and texture forms a refreshing creation. The lavishness and elegance of femininity seen in every piece, reflects the seduction of the Middle Ages stepping out of the shadows of history, and claiming a hold on the style of today.

Organic Awakening: Tarun Tahiliani

Deriving its inspiration from ‘The Kumbh—A Mela’, Tahiliani presents an interesting sophisticated take on the bohoethnic style of the sadhus. Draping, styling, colour, pattern and embroidery: He draws on everything that the saffron-clad sadhus stand for, and then gives it his signature twist with a lot of layering and wrapping of fabrics. He then transforms these silhouettes with shimmers of saffron, glimmers of reds, and sparkles of gold. Hues of evening browns and midnight blacks inspired by Kumbhinduced awakenings give birth to gorgeous evening wear. An organic wrapped-up feel envelopes skirts, kurtis, jackets, dresses, saris, gilets and accessories, reminding us of the celebrated aesthetics and sensuousness of the Kumbh.

Woven Royalty: JJ Valaya, Suneet Varma

‘Maharaja of Madrid’, JJ Valaya’s collection, which truly ruled the ramp, is a fascinating medley of Spanish allure, an Indian essence, royal cadences and life itself. He exaggerates beauty in this collection through the use of rich fabric, intricate embroidery and regal Indian sensibilities. The creations swing between the mundanely beautiful and the interestingly beautiful. But the constant is the striking royal streak, which Valaya has successfully woven in, through the liberal use of gold and silver thread.

Suneet Varma’s collection, based on his love for lyrics and poetry—words that enrich the soul—also weaves in the regal vibe with a slightly emotional feel. Taking inspiration from the verses that were written by his mother, Varma dwells upon nostalgia, an element reflected very intricately through the vintage mesh gold bead trim lace that he uses so lavishly in this collection.

A Swing of Colour: Wendell Rodricks

Wendell Rodricks’s collection ‘Red, Haute and Blue’ celebrates the festivity of style. Inspired by the new blue packaging he has designed for the Blenders Pride Reserve Collection 2013, his new line stands out with a refreshing colour palette in a minimalist style. Bright neon green, peacock blue, and hot pinks radiate youthfulness, while connecting with the super-fun era of the ’30s.

The Great Indian Drape Story: Neeta Lulla

The sheer sensuality of the past is merged pleasingly with the present in Neeta Lulla’s new collection that toys with the flirtiest aspect of our culture: The sari. The outfits in her collection emerge from the sari, retaining the playfulness from the yesteryears, but developing a modern edge, through uneven cuts, cylinder-shaped outlines and draping, with hints of shimmer. Pastel shades, vintage hues and nudes, all reflect on the wearer’s complexion, yet are muted enough to showcase one’s personality. The result: sumptuously different silhouettes and a lush, plush feel.

Fragrant with Joy: Pankaj & Nidhi

A rare blue rose that inspires love and beauty is the mysterious idea that powers Pankaj and Nidhi’s liberating collection ‘Roses are Blue’. Cutting edge craftsmanship and a modern take on sexy defines their interpretation of this eternal flower, which conjures up visions of mystery and sensuality. Their collection in many ways is a celebration of freedom, reflecting through sheer, translucent fabrics and peek-a-boo panels. Rose motifs and lush floral designs spread sheer joy that we grabbed instantly.

The Beach Edit

At this season of The India Resort Fashion Week, designers go edgy and dramatic, with a one-line motto to transform those beachy resort destinations and sexy lounges into one helluva hot zone.

An Embellished Celebration: Rocky S, Babita Malkani, Sounia Gohil and Turquoise & Gold

A line-up of glamorous and tantalizing silhouettes was seen on the runways of designers Rocky S, Babita Malkani, Sounia Gohil and Turquoise & Gold. We saw some stunning one-piece swimwear, bikinis and flowy wraps with shimmer and sequins in their collection.

A Futuristic Edge: Falguni & Shane Peacock

Falguni and Shane Peacock showcased ‘Luxury Cruise 2014’ for the grand finale, perfect for beach combers. The collection had lounge wear, striking bodysuits, swirling maxis and figure-contouring dresses in hues of green, blue, orange, yellow and peach. Their signature embellishments like feathers, sequins and prints on sheer chiffons and nets were also a part of their alluring beachwear.

Boho Chic: Nishka Lulla, Jaya Misra

Nishka Lulla’s new line is easy to wear and versatile. The high point of the collection is it’s very practical and that you can wear it as separates with a whole lot of options to mix and match. Stimulated by her travelling experiences, her collection is an assorted mix of crop tops, trousers, dresses and jackets. Fabrics vary from cotton and crêpe to organza in a pastel colour palette, ranging from minty greens and ice cream sundae pinks to muted greys and soft lavender. Jaya Misra’s collection is an ode to the bohemian lifestyle. A mix of cover-ups and cuts in fabrics ranging from chiffon to satin, her work playfully uses bright colours like ink blue, mint green, fuchsia and mint blue to create vibrancy. Interesting kimonos and raglan sleeves add a twist to her ensembles.

Flirting with the Sand: Pria Kataria Puri, Nandita Mahtani, Malini Ramani

Designers Pria Kataria Puri, Malini Ramani and Nandita Mahtani showcased their exquisitely hot resort wear collections in a wide range of styles and vibrant colours. Pria Kataria Puri’s enchanting line, called ‘Lust’, was made up of her signature kaftans and swimwear. Only this time around, she added a bit of quirk to her silhouettes by using gold lace, belts and slits, infusing a feminine charm into her garments. The colour palette was a very tasteful mix of neon greens, sunny yellows, bright fuschias, and turquoises. All so fresh!

Nandita Mahtani, for the upcoming holiday season, showcased her new cocktail and resort line in a combination of pastel hues like green, coral, yellow, pink and different shades of white. The silhouettes varied from structured kaftans, tube, one-shoulder dresses, integrated with artistic mesh, bead, and sequins embroidery. Graceful and scorching hot at the same time!

Malini Ramani attacked our senses with out-of-a-fantasy-world swimwear and lounge wear: Very chic, and sparkling with metallic accents. The hottest trends with a Malini twist. We like!

From the January 2014 issue of L’Officiel India.