Royal Nomad

Born Jagsharanjit Singh Ahluwalia, the name was shortened to JJ Valaya to define the journey of a chartered accountant to the couturier behind the Valaya fashion label. Having been brought up in an army background, the designer was always awestruck by the grand lifestyle that the officers beheld. From the gallant march pasts to the welfare workshops taken by his mother for all the wives of the jawans, acted as major influences that pushed his creative streak.

Having spent almost 3 decades in the Indian fashion industry, the designer is a treasure trove of fashion trivia and inspiration who made a major comeback on the runway. Today his empire boasts of labels such as House of Valaya, JJ Valaya Muse, JJ Valaya, Valaya Quantum, Valaya Base, Valaya Home, The Home of the Traveler.

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Growing years

“Army kids are brought up differently. I changed 6 schools because my father got posted every 3 years. We grew up in a different kind of environment, where we learnt how to let go of old friends and make new ones, we know how to adapt to new homes, we know how to shift in a minute, we just pack and move. My mother was an avid kids wear designer and her forte was party dresses for girls. Within that, her forte was embroideries. So, she used to do smocking, French knot, shadow work and all the kinds of things people don’t hear much about now a days but were very popular back then,” says JJ.

He further adds, “I was constantly exposed to craft, colour, embroidery and the beauty of this country. I used to paint I was the best artist in the school for years. And that’s it, that one decision worked out beautifully for me and that is the way it is.

Emergence

He trained under a pioneer in Indian fashion Rohit Khosla in the 80s, before starting his own label. With his elder brother TJ Singh, JJ founded The House of Valaya in 1992 with the launch of its couture label. The designers’ creative vision together with his brother's organisational abilities have been the key factors for the success of Valaya as a luxury brand. As we sat reminiscing his journey, JJ chuckles and says “My god, such a long journey, how am I going to narrate it in a nutshell? Let’s just say I have enjoyed every single moment of it and the fact is that I continue to enjoy it till date. I am looking forward to every single moment that is going to come.”

He is not one of those people who would like to think of what happens in the future and ponders over what happened in the past, rather he focuses on making every experience that one goes through his best teacher. “For me, the most important moment is this moment. What happens tomorrow, nobody knows; what happened yesterday, it happened, nothing can be done about it. So really what matters is now,” shares JJ with a twinkle in his eye.

Artistry

As the lifestyle demanded JJ grew up feeling like a nomad as they kept on moving to different cities. "But intrinsically my mind itself is like that of a royal nomad, where I like to visit cultures and see what has been happening, across periods while comparing them to the now, and imbibe from there, then tweak them and make them into the collection that is relevant and modern," shares JJ.

The designer isn't new to creating pieces that speak of the artistic flair, aesthetic and its diverse essence of one's design language. "To me, this is my art. I don’t treat clothes like clothes anyway. I think it is utterly boring to do that, then you should be a tailor. When you are a couturier and handling couture of a certain level, then each piece has to be a work of art, otherwise it makes no sense. I think of each and every piece as a work of art - meant to be invested in, meant to be cherished, meant to be loved, meant to be preserved, meant to be taken out for the next generation," expresses JJ.

Inception

As more and more creatively driven designers began entering the fashion scene, the need of the hour for the industry was to create an organisation that works to further the business of fashion in India and ensure its sustainable growth.

And as an evolutionary fashion designer and a reputed founding member of FDCI, JJ fondly reflects over how it all began. "I can’t even talk about the association because we created the FDCI. There were six-seven designers who got together in 1997 and we said that we must have a body of fashion. They were me and a couple of other designers, who created the FDCI," says JJ.

As a constructive force decided to establish the body of fashion, today it works towards promoting and nurturing its 400+ members who represent the best in Indian fashion.

Learning's

To many outsiders, working in the world of fashion seems like a career focused on little more than designer clothes, fabulous parties, and surviving on coffee and low-calorie lunches. And while, admittedly, all those aspects can play a role in a successful fashion career, while we spoke to the designer we uncovered more about life in the years worked in this industry than we ever expected we would.

"Well, the first learning is that you should never rest on your laurels, however established or successful you may be, remember that to continue being successful, you have to keep working hard. The second is to stop looking at other’s work. Don’t be concerned about who is doing what and who somebody is succeeding or failing. As Indians, I have noticed we often love to talk about if somebody goes down or you know, has not done well. We’ll talk very little about somebody has done brilliantly, especially in your own field. So never, never look around and focus on what you want. Keep going at it, highs and lows, they are going to be there, just keep going," comments JJ.

Clean slate

Couture to JJ is not only about the garments but about a deeper emotion, it is about magical experiences, it is about boundless luxury, one that has the ability to alter how people feel about themselves; it is about being honest to self. A couture collection in all its details and intricacies is a stirring manifestation of a spiritual connection between a couturier’s story and the soul of its wearer.

"I discovered that it is these very stories that I am born to narrate and also that they’ve almost always been larger than life. Set in a cross cultural milieu, they revolve around my fictional world where boundaries cease to exist and the past and present collide in a manner which calls only for a joyous sigh. In that grand maximalist expression that forms the World of Valaya, I realised, beats a heart of simplistic euphoria," says JJ.

After a three year sabbatical his love for design ushered in a new way with his latest collection Tabriz, which is an ode to, and celebrates, a mystical Persia of the 16th century through the 19th century. The inspiration further manifests itself into three unique collections, each combining Persian intricacies with our three perennial loves: The Royal legacy that defines the label, the Nomadic spirit that they always embrace and their penchant for the glamour of the Art Deco period.

COLLECTION ONE. FARSH

A collection inspired by the Persian hunting design carpets, one of the oldest and most elusive carpet styles, infused with the romance with their constant love, the Art Deco period. the label signature midnight blue meets an antique teal and further serenades Golden mustard to create a collection using aged gold metalwork, gota and multicolored threadwork.

COLLECTION TWO. NAQSHBAND

A garden of exotic flowers worked in the finest of metallic threads and beads, borders with delicate glitter, antiquated crystals and pearls, all form a part of a collection that romances rich reds and sage greens in silks, velvets and tulle.

COLLECTION THREE. KHAYYAM

The renowned royal tent makers of Persia and the masterpieces they created, form the inspiration of our Nomadic song this season. Blacks, Greys, Burgundy in a medley of materials that come together to create a dramatic montage of raw yet refined elegance. Antique mirror-work, rough cotton yarn, resham and unusual appliqué techniques form the details along with the unique prints of Valaya.

"As the only Sikh designer in India, JJ also roped in Sikh models on his runway, depicting the style in Punjab, which used to exist, but now isn't highlighted at all. "Sikhs are a very handsome species, and you cannot forego that fact. When we go back to the Patiala Royal family or the Kapurthala Royal Family, you have some of the greatest tales of luxury coming out of the but they have all disappeared now. I think it is very important what I intend doing is highlighting Sikh splendor in a completely new language," shares JJ.

Next up

Our collections, which over time may have become precious treasures in our loyalist’s hearts and wardrobes, refuse to lie dormant due to their intrinsic embrace of a superior and timeless modernity. "For the future I have so many things planned. Tabriz was step one, literally, a version 2.0 as I call it. We are now preparing our experiential space which will open in 2020. Before that I have my fine art photography show and a lot of other associations and collaborations to lookout for," concludes JJ.