Paris Fashion Week Fall/ Winter 2021 sent us all in a tizzy with its exuberant fashion films, that highlighted how much we crave comfort in dressing, especially in the time of pandemic. With an impressive lineup of films aka digital runways, we saw how functional wear emerged as a major trend presenting to us funky tracksuits, ski suits, skinny maxi dresses, earthy toned ponchos and kilted skirts. While the apparel was easy to wear and debonair in appeal, the accessories like fringe bags, waist belts and beaded pearl headbands glammed up the overall look. Here, we uncover top trending looks from PFW and deconstruct the inspirations behind fashion films.
Chanel’s Nightlife Glamour
These isolationist times have created a longing to hang out and party. While we miss the camaraderie over cocktail parties; clubbing and enjoying the nightlife too appear like a farfetched dream. But Chanel has paid an ode to this ultra-glam spirit of the party animal in us. Its designer Virginie Viard presented a collection that aimed to bring up the cool Parisian chic that’s urbane, glamorous and breathes in an air untouched by restrictions and boundaries. Chanel’s collection was presented through fashion film that showed us snippets of models dressing up to the nines, as if ready for a girls night out. The monochrome film was reminiscent of 70’s clubbing with the song ‘Do You Know Where We Are Going To’ playing in the background dropping hints of the uncertain times. Shot at Castel’s night club in Paris, the collection presented suave trench coats, sheer blouses, Quilted Salopettes, Norwegian sweaters in funky colors, sequined skirts, cuffs with fringes and more. The chic ultra-glam looks were heightened with chained waist-belts, boots, furry handbags, very long and thin earrings marking a strikingly alluring look that’s intimate, sophisticated and comfortable.
This is one fashion house who always outdoes itself in terms of creativity! Schiaparelli never forgets to pay an ode to the intricacies of the human body and its anatomical features, that deeply inspire the fashion house’s craft for designing. Presenting its collection, through a fashion film titled ‘Surrealism, A Happy Filter’, the brand showed right from its first glimpse, that its fetish for the human body’s sculptural properties is real and realized. The film showed a model talking on a cellphone morphed into a big golden ear. Gradually, we see how the house takes anatomical dressing several notches higher with taboo motifs embossed on its black dresses. Another dress showed elements made of gold metallic material like a mystical Dove, half-eye, ear and lips embossed on a shining black shirt appearing like artefacts excavated from archaeological sites and museum-fied on dresses. Another salient bodily garment in this collection was quilted leather breasts and leather bralettes that seemed quite inventive. The apparels were accessorized with the motif of lock-chains on denim jackets, thick gold chains, platform heels and thick rings in the shape of molars representing the teeth that looked eccentrically dramatic. Combining both the art of sculpturing and designing, Daniel Roseberry, the house’s artistic director has proved why Schiaparelli is worn by global stars like Beyonce and Kim Kardashian in the past.
We saw how functional wear emerged as a major trend presenting to us - funky tracksuits, ski suits, skinny maxi dresses, earthy toned ponchos and kilted skirts.
Giambattista Valli’s Cultural Blend
The house presented a collection that took inspiration from Valli’s native Rome that blended seamlessly well with the Parisian silhouette. The result from this cultural amalgam was a collection emanating feminine allure and romance, with ethereal gowns reminding one of the spring. We could also see ballroom dresses dishing out straight from fairytales. From translucent gowns in baby pink to lacework midis and mini dresses in monochrome, the collection intricately wove traditional Roman embroidery and floral motifs; while keeping intact the modern Parisian look exuded through off-shoulder necklines, frills, golden patchwork and short hemlines. A statement accessory that dolled up the look was pearl beaded headbands that were last seen in Dior’s SS21 haute couture inspired by the art of Tarot reading.
Balmain’s Flight to Future
When we will be able to travel again? That’s a question we have asked innumerable times, and then again went back to our slumbers given the precarious phase. But when it comes to Balmain, the Maison has kept its vision sky high in fashion. It presented a digital runway shot at Charles de Gaulle airport, piloted by creative director Olivier Rousteing, showing motifs of free travel. The highly experimental runway showed models walking on the wings of the plane and on the airport runway, stealing the show with military-inspired outfits and a ‘devil-may-care’ spirit. They flashed their orbit wear astronaut inspired metallic suits, parachute suits, army boots, waist belts and a slew of accessories inspired by aviation- super cool airplane shaped bags and compass pendants. The color scheme was equally experimental, including the funky neon-colored suits in orange, fuchsia pink and yellow to glitzy golden long dresses and silver metallic suits. What amplified the unruffled streak of this ‘ahead-of-the-curve-collection’ is the matching stilettos, a wide range of handbags cum travel bags and broad waist belts. Seems like waist belts are gonna rule this season!
Chloe’s Bourgeoise Bohemian Style
Want to look both classy and bohemian? While the two styles might look like an antidote to one another, Chloe imagined them together with knits, leathers and fringes. The brand threw a runway that dazzled on the cobblestone streets of Brasserie Lipp and Saint-Germain-des-Prés where models pulled off the hippy fashion with warm color toned ponchos, fringe bags, knitted fishnet bags and kilted skirts, that matched with the color palette of ochre, mustard, ivory and camel. On the other front, they rocked an elite bourgeoisie dressing with leather waist belts and body-hugging maxi dresses. The collection took inspiration from the house’s creative force Gabriela Hearst’s Uruguayan heritage that she mixed with the brand’s taste for opulence. The collection is reportedly sustainable with materials like eggs, eco-leather and seaweed used in the making of it and scraps of fabrics taken from past collections to build this one. Once again, it conveyed Hearst’s eco-friendly vision in fashion that she has championed in the past with certified carbon neutral shows and creating clothes out of deadstock.
Vivienne Westwood Brings Drama
The brand paid tribute to the peppy musical ‘My Fair Lady’ based on Bernard Shaw’s 1913 play ‘Pygmalion’ that revolves around Eliza Doolittle; a flower girl who takes lessons on the speech from a professor so that she can become a lady of an elite class. The musical comedy was an instant hit, owing to its witty plot, and the fashion house now has adapted it into a fashion film to showcase their collection that’s eerily comical in presentation.
With this lyrical collection infused with lines from the play, the brand paid tribute to all women across the globe and underscored its conversationalist approach towards design.
The dramatic collection had apparel like tulle, tutus, unisex skirts, military-inspired jacket cum coats, huge multicolored flower headpieces and mini tartan kilts. Altogether, it went in sync with the impish narrative of the play with overtones of grunge that made all the looks appear punky and absurdly unique.
Dior Re-Imagines Fairytales
The charm of fairy tales has inspired many fashion houses’ in the past and this time it struck a chord with Christian Dior. The Maison re-imagined fairytales of Cinderella and Red Riding Hood through its collection, that explored the theme of vanity. The collection showed how we are so obsessed with self-image construction, that metaphorically mirrors- be it in our cellphones or in real, attract us and at the same time repulse us when we do not find ourselves perfect. Addressing this digital narcissism and taking mirror as metaphor, Dior presented its fashion film shot at ‘House Of Mirrors’ in Versailles that looked like a dark fantasy novel. While models stunned us in beautiful floral maxi dresses, leather bibs reminiscent of ‘Alice in Wonderland', floaty princess gowns with Cinderella moments, tulle frocks and dramatic capes, one could also see thorns coming out of the mirror kept alongside the runway; showing how one feels snubbed by the idea of what is beauty! With this timelessly classic show, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri fashionably nailed in bringing the complex issue of image construction to the fore with great aesthetics.
Koche’s Wings of Fire
Phoenix is symbolic of birth, death and re-birth. The mythical bird personifies optimism and resilience of rising from the ashes, aka difficult times and emerging victorious from it. This optimism for the future is what guided this particular Koche’s collection. Presented through theatrical fashion film, ‘Birds of Paradise’, the Maison depicted how we as a collective humanity are going to win over these challenging times. It made its inspiration from Phoenix amply clear by using feathers in apparel as seen in T-Shirts and cape made of Goose and Rooster feathers.
Apart from that, the collection had denim, athletic wear, tracksuits, slit dresses, leather jackets, pants, cutting edge tops, and coats.
Di Petsa’s Celestial Beauty
A touch of otherworldly truly transports one to an entirely different milieu. Realizing this, Greek designer Dimitra Petsa presented a collection titled ‘I Am My Own Mother’, that birthed from full moon rituals and an embrace of womanhood and self-mothering. The path breaking collection broke taboos regarding female bodies and them seeking pleasure through their bodily fluids. It was a visual letter on body positivity, shown with utmost sensibility. The collection was interspersed with poetry and fluid movements presented through statement “wet” looks that exuded sensuality and intimacy and subverted shame. This resulted in a revolutionary collection that centered around maternity wear with breastfeeding velvet corsets, floor-length silk dress, Greek era-inspired white gowns, gold-embroidered dresses along with other pieces inspired by Byzantine era embroidery techniques. It was complemented with palliative jewellery, made of semi-precious and healing stones, that amplified the soothing effect of the dresses and added more allure to it.
Paco Rabanne’s Big Party
As we wrap our heads around going out, having fun, partying hard and coming out of the confinements, brand’s like Paco Rabanne has cashed on this spirit of yearning for gala times. It presented a collection with models decked up in accessories like crystal bracelets, ornamented waist belts, chic chokers, crystal necklaces, stone earring, cute sling bags in cherry and peach satchels with broad chain handles. Even the party wear garments were bedecked with jeweled corsets, showing a high refinery and ultra-glamorous look. Other statement wear from the collection include Shetland sweaters, tweed coats, blingy golden mid-length frock style dresses and animal printed fox fur scarves, that added a plush look suitable for a hardcore party lover that loves reveries of evening gatherings. To sum up, the collection encapsulated the vibrancy of youth, their passion and unbridled energy with a touch of avant-garde fashion. So if you are a die-hard party animal, then this collection might give you some dressing goals!
Kenneth Ize’s Circle of Birth & Death
Many a times, the designers' hometown, their cultural background and surroundings, where they grew, up act as immersive inspirations to create a collection and Kenneth Ize is no different. The Lagos born designer from Africa is devoted to Nigerian craft traditions, that he employs in his collections with a modern outlook. This time at PFW, the brand brought a collection on the table that dealt with the philosophy of ‘Circle of Birth and Death’ portrayed through 'Ouroboros'- an ancient symbol in Egyptian iconography; showing a snake eating its own tail, indicating wholeness. The motif of Ouroboros could be seen on shirts with both dark and light color palettes. It was also seen in accessories like tribal snake necklaces and big hoop earrings, with snakehead in the center. A striking feature of the collection was a dark color scheme with hues like ochre, maroon, garnet, camel, black and mustard; providing warmth in the outerwear. From pantsuits to loose shirts, and remarkably bold high slit dress, the collection merged tribal aesthetics with comfortable fabrics and high style.
Mossi’s Fluid Movements
Swift, fluid body movements and apparel complementing them are what defined Mossi’s collection. For its winter collection, the brand took inspiration from Japanese textile expert Ryoji Hatsuyama, who is an expert in coal dyeing. This resulted in a collection that was driven by the simplicity and opacity of primary colors of blue, yellow and red worn against a white background that brought sharp contrast to the outerwear.
One could see models slaying in tulle dresses, polka-dotted white shirts with puffy sleeves, polka-dotted yellow jumpsuits and much more. To add more quirkiness, the designer used white sneakers with bright colored freehand designs printed on them that completed the zany look.
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