Panthère on the Prowl

Think Cartier jewellery and the most obvious image of an animal that conjures up is of the panther. This animal face in its myriad jewelled avatars has ruled the world since 1914. This Maison’s iconic mascot was pioneered by Louis Cartier with his associate Jeanne Toussaint and with time, it became a magnificent form in the history of Cartier, as well as jewelled motifs. Since then, like an emblem to the brand, symbolising predatory elegance, the panther has adorned several bracelets, brooches, earrings, long necklaces, pendants and watches making them an immediate object of desire and attention. Given that Cartier was the first jewellery brand ever to explore the panther as a metaphor to femininity, never have these pieces disappointed the eyes with its design and craftsmanship.

The designs were appreciated by the Duchess of Windsor for the first time in 1948. So what’s fresh in Panthère de Cartier collection, some may wonder?

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As they believe, an animal can provide a way to tell a story of life, and garner emotions brought into an inanimate object, the designers study the attitude, anatomy and movement of this feline, while making the jewellery with panther as a motif. And then its amalgamation with elements from the nature bring it to life. The artists at Cartier carefully interpret the three-dimensional volume of the jewels. Loved and appreciated for their emerald eyes and onyx muzzle, the signature pieces are playing on strong motions in the Panthère de Cartier such as running, roaring, one is even playing with its tail. These pieces are in a set in brilliant-cut diamonds framed with yellow and white gold.

The pieces

Ring in 950 platinum with one cushion-shaped sapphire, 356 brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and onyx. 18K yellow gold earrings set with a ceramic ring, black lacquer spots, onyx noses, tsavorite garnet eyes and diamonds. Panthère de Cartier bracelet in 18K white gold and black lacquer with tsavorite garnets and onyx. Panthère de Cartier ring in 18K white gold set with 315 brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and onyx. Necklace in 18K white gold set with 469 brilliant-cut diamonds, emerald and onyx.

From the December 2020 issue of L’Officiel India.