Out Of The Box

Renowned for her over the top makeup techniques through technology and the idea of self-expression, one of the world’s top makeup artists, Alex Box, talks exclusively to L’Officiel India about her decade long journey and final exit as the creative director from the cosmetic giant Illamasqua, the importance of positivity and what makes a person beautiful!

Having studied Fine Arts at Chelsea College of Art & Design in London, how did make-up come in play?

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I started to work with medias that would deliver the vision that I had in my head, so I started mixing and using a lot of multi-media. However, I also wanted to use body and people in my work, so I naturally produced the trends myself. A lot of influences that I had for my vision at that time were from artists like Cindy Sherman, who were using bodies in their work, thus leading me to using body and faces too. All of this naturally migrated my work in the area of makeup where I was using lots of prosthetics and makeup techniques; and it wasn’t until somebody saw it in a fashion context when I did a fashion show with a fellow artist. It was at that time when it was seen as makeup, whereas before that I saw it as an artwork.

So would you refer yourself as a makeup artist or an artist who uses makeup?

An artist who uses makeup. Mainly because I have not always seen makeup as a linear tool but always as a power of expression, whether I use sculptural techniques or makeup as in powder and pigment, it all comes through from the essence of the face and using the bodies of the people. So, I have never used makeup as a material, I have always seen myself as an artist who uses makeup.

How would you relate your Fine Arts background to the work that you do now?

It has always been a process. I have always seen it as a body of work which has sprouted from the roots from where I started with the whole sculptural, cinematic and using technology on the body and it is kind of a full 360 degree view of an image. As an artist, I was in my studio creating these worlds, and at Illamasqua too, as the creative director of the brand, I created the whole 360-degree vision of the cosmetic giant and produced unique concepts for the brand. Hence, I believe that is the purpose of a Fine Art’s artist – you help build a full view vision of what goes on in your creative mind.

How would you relate the relationship between art and technology in your body of work?

It’s a very organic process. I use technology seamlessly like it’s readily available, it’s all about it being another medium for me that is exciting, captivating and allows me to use it in a new ways to lay down colour and light on the face or the body. I always want to further my knowledge with learning new techniques and eventually finding new ways to express my creative vision onto anything. So, I always use new techniques in my work to harness the emotions that lie within me.

In 2014, you digitally scanned a model’s head so that the audience could paint over it. What was the idea behind such an incredible showcase?

The methods used was a way to connect the audience to the new age world of technology. It was the first time that people were able to track and be a part of such a movement and I believe that was a great way, as an artist, to allow the audience to use paint and art in a way that I look at it too. That is what I am aiming to achieve; to use new applications and gaining towards the new age art movement and that is what I am pioneering towards at the moment. It’s like I am always asking questions as to what is possible and to also make the readers and the audience to question the same and to think!

You recently announced your exit from Illamasqua…

I was contacted by Illamasqua’s founder to build the brand from a makeup artist’s perspective and to create a vision. It started very small and it was all about the alter ego, the idea was to show that what was possible with makeup and the colours involved in the Illamasqua makeup range were created in order to express yourself. And that is ultimately what I am about. It’s been a whole 10 years for me since the concept of Illamasqua began and I felt very happy to have filled the brand’s wonderful position. However, now I want to further my own skills and take my own visions for myself to the next level. It was a very beautiful ending to a fantastic journey.

Having referred the brand to bring out the alter ego, what is your alter ego?

I have a thousand of alter egos! They’re ever changing [laughs]. You see, this is the thing, I don’t think that anybody has just one alter ego, I believe people act and behave differently on a daily basis and that is the beauty of being alive; and that is something that very much defines who I am as my next incarnation now is to really harness the idea of self expression and being able to connect with yourself. I recently did a Tedx Talk where I talked about my journey, who I am and what I’ve done, it is a very inspiring talk and full of positivity.

Your favourite product(s) from the brand…

That’s really hard; it’s all of them! Obviously one of them will be the “Box” red lipstick that defines my style and me; I made it myself and it is my everyday lipstick. Also, the skin base foundations, which are the best foundation I have ever used in my life! There is also a colour corrector, which launched almost two months ago. It was the last thing that I made for Illamasqua and it is incredibly close to my heart. It is a product that has an idea of perfection on the face and I think everybody has that very same idea of makeup products.

When you are making over someone’s face, is it more about the beauty trends or your artistic expression?

Exactly, it’s all about the artistic expression. I never follow trends at all; I am always in my own bubble anyway. I do not look at any type of magazines. The idea of working on another face really depends from face to face. I am a very spiritual person, I like to take someone’s energy in order to tell me what is needed and then bring my artistic vision and understanding the mediums to use that’ll make somebody shine and that is absolutely important! It is never about overpowering their beauty but about elevating it.

Having collaborated with a vast variety of designers for their runway show, how are the makeup looks negotiated between what the designers want and your vision?

It is a purely collaborative process between great minds. I am very lucky to have been worked with designers that love what I do and it’s all about being in harmony with the collections and the designer’s vision too. It’s not necessarily about me, it’s about them; it’s like a puzzle – to find the right pieces to complete the final look and to create something beautiful.

Your most exciting show…

My long-term work partnership with Gareth Pugh has been endlessly exciting. They have always been incredible shows and his spring-summer 2016 collection was the last show that we have worked together on where I painted big red crosses across the model’s face and body. It was about his return back to England and also about the ritual, adornment and power. It was a very emotional and impactful collaboration. On the other hand, the Issey Miyake show, which was full of life and very playful. In his last show, I made the girls lay down and blew paint over their faces with a plastic straw, it’s called the motion technique, and it really captivated the spirit of the collection.

Your most memorable moment…

It’s always about what’s next [laughs].

What makes a person beautiful?

Joy in their heart! If you don’t have joy in your heart, you can’t radiate the positivity and the beauty that is within you. Yes, everybody has their moments where their heart is dark, but if you find the spirit of joy and the light, then you are eminently beautiful!

Your dream collaboration…

I am about to embark on a book with collaborating with a lot of different famous people and make things that make people never look like that before. So, hopefully my dream collaboration is about to happen!

Your most favourite look…

The most iconic and memorable look was the one I did with Rankin, which was the woman all in black. It is all very intricate and also because of the time and labour that went into creating that significant look. It was one of those looks that one can never recreate and something that I will not repeat because I sort of go into another space, where I am not there in that place but am somewhere else.

What does colour mean to you?

Colour is life! Colour is energy. Colour is vibration and it’s fundamental. It is healing; it is everything!

Having collaborated with the London College of Fashion hair and makeup students, how do you feel when students showcase works inspired by you?

It is incredibly flattering! I feel very humble that people are inspired by me and I am constantly told on a daily basis that people are doing makeup because of me and my work. Therefore, it is really important as an artist to inspire people; I have always felt very responsible about that and I always wanted to give something back. I always talk to people, I make sure I take out time for anybody because that energy gives me inspiration. So as artists, you want people to get inspired by your work and that feeling is an absolute blessing!

Any chances of you visiting India?

Now that I am concentrating on myself and have opened a new chapter that is about my practice and me, so yes! I have this whole idea of colour therapy that will enable one to connect with themselves and to create this whole workshop and this Alex Box world that I want to be able to take that around the world, so India will be one of the stops that I will make for this journey. Because, I believe India has this understanding of colour and to be present in such an environment will be delightful! So, you will have to invite me!

If you could create a masterpiece inspired by India…

I would love to be there and do that! It’s almost like you need to drink the spirit of the place to being able to create something magical.

An Indian designer you’d like to collaborate with…

I used to work with Manish Arora a lot, so it would be great to work with him again. We did that long time ago when we started, so it would be great to kind of revisit and collaborate now, where we both have reached the next level of our careers.

Any last words…

It is important for me and for everybody else to able to connect your inside and your outside in order to build a self-expression and create the idea of self-healing. I want to take that energy, colour and vibrations into a healing practice.