JJ Valaya: Of Veils And Trails

One of the most revered trousseau designers, JJ Valaya gives us a sneak peek into summer bridal style where cholis are getting smaller and lehengas lighter; resham gets precedence over zardozi and trails add a nifty, new flavour.

Couturier JJ Valaya loves oxymorons. That’s why he will tell you that a summer bride is sexy, informed and gets her kicks from riding the ‘subtle’ wave that is sweeping catwalks globally.

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With astrological star positions favouring summer months for nuptials this year, Valaya agrees there has been a vast change from the era when he began, with no Internet, smartphones or extensive world travel. “There were two retail outlets (Ensemble and Ffolio), which offered designer garments in the early ’90s,” says Valaya. “Women really didn’t have many options to choose from, unlike now, when they are spoilt for choice—the online explosion only makes it better.” Known for his riveting contradictions, like the Nomadic Royalty collection, the fashion czar developed his empire over a course of 22 years. The burgeoning business that started with only three tailors, employs 300 people today, with the fashion guru being on the wedding-wear wishlist of many brides.

Summer weddings can be tough, as the bride needs the embellished feel to blend with comfort. Interestingly, the lehenga for summer has become lighter and breezier. Valaya agrees. He tells us that women may not wear heavy lehengas for summer, but they still aspire to look like a million bucks and want something that is finely crafted and has an antique feel. He says, “Brides are now much more evolved, so timelessness becomes a priority for them. And when you are dealing with a thinking woman, it is a paradigm shift, as she is looking at converting heirlooms into natty pieces she can tweak and wear to her wedding.” JJ Valaya Muse offers such brides an updated and upscale trousseau, with the finest craftsmanship and embellishments of real gems (pearls, topaz, opal, crystals). “These are some of the pieces summer brides are loving, as they are one-off creations—they will not be duplicated or promoted through photo-shoots,” he explains.

The father of two confesses that he is quite peeved with the ‘bastardisation of the sari’, a beautiful garment that has been given the unhealthy sari-gown avatar, which most brides-to-be adopt for their cocktail functions. “As most new-age professionals dress in Western outfits daily, they come to me with requests for traditional offerings during their wedding. I may be against the whole sari gown invasion, but there is no denying the fact that there is a parallel market for hybrid clothes, and a huge one too,” he laughs.

Understanding the changing needs of modern women, Valaya focuses on taking the brand ahead in a luxury market bursting at its seams. “There may be recession, but weddings and home are two things that will never get affected by the economic climate,” he says. “So I keep the colours calm with an influx of pastels, ivory, champagne, golds, beiges, cappuccino and nudes so the sweltering heat can be simmered down a bit with these softer hues,” he says. He is quick to add that living in India and not getting overwhelmed by colour is next to impossible, so the tilt of the earth’s axis will not change a bride’s love for carmine reds, rani pinks and tangy oranges. While the palette is sensuous, the drapes are diaphanous, with sheers and opaque adding a dreamy look. “I have noticed that brides now want a trail in their lehengas for theatrics and grandeur, along with bajubands and belts. The double dupatta also works (one used as a veil and the other draped near the waist),” he says.

Women want to feel relaxed during their wedding ceremony and enjoy it rather than be constantly worried about the weight of the outfit or the uncomfortable fit. Valaya always advises them to go easy on the makeup and hair if the lehenga is too ornate, but in vain. “Indian brides love to do it up and how! I tell them they need to find a nifty balance so that the only word that everyone repeats is ‘sexy, sexy and sexy’,” he chuckles. And therefore, midriffs are getting highlighted, cholis will be minuscule and backs have almost vanished; necklines for summer are interestingly, but not devastatingly, low. “At 40 degrees Celsius you don’t want to melt in an elephantine lehenga. I keep the zardozi to 20 per cent in summer (it’s almost 80 per cent in winter) and prefer to give them resham and gota work instead, along with crystals, which have been my first obsession.”

What gets Valaya going is his love for using the reservoir of crafts and heritage that the country has, to dwell in it and reinvent it, giving it style and sustainability along the way. “Weddings give you that canvas to play with this context,” he concludes.

From the May 2014 issue of L’Officiel India.