Gappei: Through The Looking Glass

The antiquated charm of expertly crafted jewellery often gravitates to an artistic, bohemian, unconventional, experimental, colourful, vintage and tasteful appeal for those who like aesthetics as a lingering subtext in their style statement.
Radiant like a flame, transparent like water, versatile like glass; a woman can be it all. Translating the different aspects of a woman, Reshmi Dey, who’s long been ‘Obsessed with Glass’ has created a line of bespoke mostly clear blown and formed glass pieces, inspired by transparency and impermanence for confident women.
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GAPPEI ( ) is the translation of the Japanese word ‘Amalgamation’ and at Reshmi’s label, Glass Sutra it’s the fusion of glass as a medium and the skills of a glass maker; instilling the sense of pride and selfworthiness one piece at a time.
Inception

A trip to Firozabad, in the state of Uttar Pradesh in India gave Reshmi first-hand knowledge about glass work, after which there was no looking back. A woman wanting to get her hands dirty in the glassblowing industry was largely unheard of, and her safety and security was of great concern to all. Perseverance, persistence, strength of character, coupled with a warm demeanor and a never-quit attitude finally convinced the workers and owners of the Firozabad Glass Industry, to let Reshmi interact with them.
For nearly two years thereafter, she learned the various aspects of the art of glassblowing and the relevant processes and methodology involved. After travelling to various creative glass centres around the world, such as Italy, Austria, Sweden, USA, and the Czech Republic, she delved deep into the philosophies behind the craft. Her creativity and sheer resilience further made her take a big leap into the world of Lighting and Installation Art, while also representing India at various global glass art forums.
“My special bonding with glass led me into the direction of jewellery making. By understanding the material, its strength and beauty along with the zeal and resilience of the women from North Eastern India while designing for our collection - ‘Ashtori’, I was enchanted to further explore this mysterious medium,” says Reshmi.
Inspiration

The collection is an amalgamation of bold approach, beautiful craftsmanship and simple design sensibilities. Made one by one with soul and utmost passion for glass art, this unique collection mixes playfulness with a fresh attitude and presents pieces that are as inspiring and edgy. Through GAPPEI, Reshmi has made it a point to reflect her playful side through her designs, which are meant to be worn literally, all day long.
Who is it for? A strong personality who leaves you feeling inspired. A woman who does not follow the crowd. She is independent, isolated, unique, and bizarre. She is bold, courageous, fierce, yet delicate at the same time. She is a warrior. She adds more beauty to each bespoke piece with her strength, elegance and originality.
“Gone are the days when women used to embellish themselves with a lot of things to be noticed. Today’s women grace and adorn themselves with confidence; so less is more. Versatility, experimental fusion and adornment are some of the upcoming trends that we can see in the near future. As we have recently stepped into the realm of fashion jewellery, our unique take on structure and form have been receiving an overwhelming response. Also, blown glass wearable jewellery in India is something people could not think about so far,” shares Reshmi.
Philosophy

Since the beginning Reshmi believed that jewellery alone couldn’t add to a woman’s beauty unless she carries it well with poise and conviction. Jewellery is an accessory which is used to enhance a particular look only when it’s worn gracefully. And being the lightening bearer of womanhood Reshmi conceptualised GAPPEI, the table-blown glass jewellery range with the same thought for all the self-reliant women out there. Pieces like rings, earrings, necklaces from her collection are easily noticed, they portray success and radiate happiness. They link women to their emotions, grace, strength, sense of humour and emote a perfect picture of ‘versatility’.
Beautiful handcrafted pieces are produced in-house using Pyrex glass rods, and are further mingled with alloy, sterling silver and stainless steel. Produced in a limited number, all the pieces that her label creates are crafted individually by hand so, no two pieces are alike. Strokes of colour narrate the poise story of how an object is made, which reflects on the beauty of women and their experience. “Simplicity and design sensibility are the two key elements to keep up with the ever changing trend,” says Reshmi.
Artwork
Whether it’s a charm pendant or a layered bubble bead necklace, the flawless glasswork craftsmanship makes Reshmi’s pieces a connoisseur’s delight and the wearer’s pride. Her designs range from traditional styles and glass carvings with abstract motifs to more modern interpretations of contemporary themes.

GAPPEI jewellery is popular not only for its exclusivity and old-world charm, but it is versatile enough to turn a look from retro to modern just as easily with totemic fusion and conceptual designs. The most undeniable appeal of glass jewellery are the array of colours which are infused with a carefree abandon—as overrun as the colours appear, there is a masterful method behind the madness, the one you can’t resist.
“Jewellery today is more of a fashion statement or a reflection of one’s personality. This has given a major revolution blow to traditional jewellery, and modernised the taste of the new generation. Art jewellery is a wearable story. I create glass pieces which are unique in meaning, shape and size—fit for all powerful women out there. GAPPEI is a blend of conventional and contemporary aesthetics. It breaks traditional dominance of gold and silver and caters meticulously to the experimental and young audience who are always young at heart,” shares Reshmi.
Revival
Just like the fashion trends in clothes and shoes that remain evergreen, jewellery does the same. People love to follow them in all ages and times, in the same way. There are also many jewellery styles that have lasted for many years and still look trendy and chic. Yet new jewellery styles are introduced every year but not all of them have the strength to withstand time and age as gracefully.
“Jewellery has always been an expression and extension of one’s personality. And glass is an element which speaks to you and has always been a conversation initiator since time immemorial. Didn’t we all see our mothers, aunts and grandmothers wear glass bangles? With GAPPEI we have carried forward the old and reintroduced the same with a modern twist with handcrafted glass neckpieces, earrings and rings. I chose jewellery as my way of making glass find a place in every woman’s heart,” says Resshmi.
She further adds, “I connect glass with women because of its transparency, opacity, fragility and strength. For the future I am trying to blend silver or gold in the hot process with glass. This would be something very special and unheard for most people out there.”
From the January 2020 issue of L’Officiel India.
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