François Nars: Life Sans Hashtags

An emblematic figure in the world of beauty, François Nars has revolutionised our approach to makeup, to the point of turning it into an artistic discipline.

On the release of his collection inspired by photographer Man Ray, he talks about people who inspire him, his muses and photography.

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You have dedicated yourself entirely to beauty.

I was born in the south of France and started my career as a makeup artist in Paris, after which I left for New York in the early ‘80s, where I live, intermittently, to this day. In 1994, I decided to launch my own makeup brand rather than picking up products. At the same time, I also dabbled into photography to create a visual identity for Nars Cosmetics, releasing several picture books. Since then I have shot all the frames for the brand’s advertisements, like for the last campaign for Fall-Winter 2017/18 collection.

So, does photography influence your work?

For me, makeup and photography are two disciplines that complement each other. I have, for a long time, collaborated with the biggest names in photography world, such as Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Steven Meisel. I learnt everything from them, and makeup was an essential element in each of those shoots. The connection between the worlds of makeup and photography was rather obvious for me.

What does Man Ray mean to you?

I have tremendous admiration for Man Ray since my youth. At the age of 13, I came across his work when I read the books dedicated to him. I became fascinated by his art, his vision and by the prolific era of the ‘20s and ‘30s. He was an integral part of these extraordinary decades that saw the birth of the surrealist movement, the coming of Picasso and other, one-of-a-kind, artists. I had always been knocked off my feet by his rather avant-garde approach, something that has inspired me over the course of my career, as good with makeup as with photography. The Man Ray Foundation has agreed to be part of this collaboration for our last line of cosmetics. It is an honour for us.

Who have been your muses?

The muses of Man Ray, rather fittingly I should say. Let’s begin with Kiki de Montparnasse, his favourite, the one he has really photographed. She has always inspired me when it came to makeup. I had, for that matter, created a story inspired by the looks of Kiki with Linda Evangelista for an Italian magazine. A tip of the hat to characteristically shaped eyebrows and her irresistibly sensual dark lips. I also adore Charlotte Gainsbourg, with whom we created a collection as well. I love her uncompromising modernity, personality, talent, and style.

What are the artistic references that feed your creative process?

There are so many. Recently, I rediscovered the films of Pedro Almodóvar that I have always loved, but had forgotten a little. I really admire his strong personality and the extraordinary way he makes a woman so sublime. I am also a fan of Tilda Swinton’s, her ability to transform herself and her work ethic. Also, Vanessa Redgrave is one of my favourite actresses. Singer Barbara too. I will never let go of her, I listen to her to this day, through all the many years. I regret that she is no longer in this world, because I would have really loved to photograph her and ask her to collaborate with me.

You are known for your legendary discretion but how do you see this ‘starification’, if you will, of makeup artist through social media?

I am probably one of the last few who don’t have an Instagram account. But that doesn’t prevent me from observing all that is going on. And I am sometimes pleasantly surprised. If talent exists and the Internet is merely a platform that allows one to be noticed, then why not? But, it is important to separate the truly passionate and talented people from opportunists. One should be able to discriminate intelligently, not gobble up everything that is served. I have a relatively critical eye it would seem, when I look at what the makeup artist proposes. Having said that, I have nothing against it. I believe that these new methods of communication will help discover a lot of new talent.

Where do you like to go to recharge?

Paris... it never ceases to inspire me. Also, Tahiti, where I have spent a lot of the last 15 years. I am also rediscovering Los Angeles that I didn’t quite appreciate the first time. In the last two years, I have fallen in love with that city. I love Melrose, Los Feliz, but also Beverly Hills. I love watching the women; their approach to beauty is diametrically opposite to that of the Parisian women. They display their preference for plastic surgery very clearly here, and that has an almost amusing side to watch. But, more importantly, I love the weather and the light which is so characteristic of this city, and this peculiar atmosphere that spreads through all of California.

From the October 2017 issue of L’Officiel India.