Footnotes

“Her feet will tell you everything you need to know about her.” Whether it’s how well she dresses them, or how well she looks after them. And this summer’s got you plenty of options for both. We spoke to some cutting-edge designers who are bringing about a veritable global revolution in women’s footwear, and picked out summer specials, so you have happy feet, this season.

After walking restrictively in the shadows of male shoe designers, women are stepping into the limelight, and how! Being comprehensive and sensitive adds to their strength, and their experience and knowledge in the domain lends them credibility. Not surprising then, that the fashion fraternities in Paris, Milan and New York are already talking about their flair. And there’s some fine Indian talent we’ve spotted, too.

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The saucy Barbie girl: Sophia Webster

Cheerful and spontaneous, Sophia Webster is this season’s most delightful find. Her creations are energetic and girly, and so well-designed they could actually pass off as works of art. After studying fine arts, Sophia specialised in shoemaking at the Cordwainers School and then at the Royal College of Art in London. She spent four years working with Nicholas Kirkwood, her mentor. In fact, he was the one who helped her launch her first collection. Born to English parents in Durban, South Africa, she now lives in north-east London.

How would you describe your creations?

Colourful, cool and sexy.

Where are your shoes manufactured?

In Brazil.

What kind of woman do you design your shoes for?

They are made for women who like to play around with colour, while still being extremely chic.

The best compliment you have ever received...

That my shoes are comfortable.

What inspired your latest collection?

Brazil in Technicolor. It is feminine, sexy and relaxed.

Your favourite pair?

The Flamingo pair with pink flamingos.

The offbeat stylista: Tabitha Simmons

Model-turned-stylist and consultant Tabitha Simmons began to design shoes in 2009. Success followed almost immediately. She infuses a British charm into her shoes, which are both elegant and unconventional. Her feminine and retro-futurist creations earned her the British Style Award in 2012. This beautiful and talented Englishwoman is a mother of two boys and spends her time between New York—where she lives—and her workshops near Venice, Italy—where her shoes are designed.

How would you describe your creations?

Timeless, sexy, elegant and fantastical.

Which would you say are your bestsellers?

The Early boots and the Alexas.

The best compliment you have ever received...

When I see women wearing shoes from my first collection and when they tell me that they still love these pairs.

What inspired your latest collection?

It is a collection with a lot of English references, with traditional stripes—a motif that was woven in England.

Your favourite pair?

The Eva.

The retro-glam girl: Charlotte Dellal

She sports the look of a 1940’s heroine, with red lips and wavy hair. Her Rita Hayworth-inspired style is visible even in her creations. Charlotte grew up between London, Paris, Rio and Cape Town. She studied shoemaking at the Cordwainers School in London, and in 2007, she launched her brand Charlotte Olympia. She lives in London and spends her time between her job and her two sons, Ray and Ike.

How would you describe your creations?

Feminine, nostalgic and full of humour.

Who or what inspires you?

Strong women and Hollywood glamour.

What are your bestsellers?

The Kitty, the Dolly and the Paloma shoes.

What inspired your latest collection?

La Vie en Rose. A romantic vision of Paris, from the boudoir to the Eiffel Tower.

Your favourite pair?

The Colette shoes and the Ooh La La embroidered flats.

The coquettishly androgynous: Laurence Dacade

She is the official shoe designer of the illustrious house of Chanel. However, this dynamic designer managed to factor in enough time to create her own brand in 2003. She designs shoes that are chic, rock-inspired and feminine: sensual and androgynous at the same time. This mother of two shuttles between her home on the banks of the Seine, Chanel’s offices at Rue Cambon and her own workshops in Italy.

How would you describe your creations?

I like to think of all of my creations and each member having their own identity and differences with each other—biker boots, stilettos or python moccasins.

Which is your bestseller?

The Merli boots.

The best compliment you have ever received...

When I spot women wearing my shoes, it is compliment enough for me.

What inspired your latest collection?

A city girl in a classic trench coat, classy makeup and understated colours. A contrast between sensual and chic.

The nostalgic realist: Amélie Pichard

At 29, Amélie Pichard is on a roll—she just won the Design award from the Mayor of Paris and her retro-casual creations are now available at Colette. After spending five years at Dice Kayek and a quick stint at a bootmaker, she went on to launch her own brand of shoes. She is greatly inspired by the French New Wave era, the works of photographer Guy Bourdin and David Lynch’s heroine. Cinema and a sense of nostalgia are two major leitmotifs that run through her collection. And her clothes? Well, they are an unexpected blend of materials and textures.

How would you describe your creations?

References to surrealism and glamour, but within limits, with a healthy dose of everyday street style.

Which is your bestseller?

My platform derby shoes with tortoiseshells and sequins.

Where are your shoes manufactured?

In Spain.

Your fondest memory?

The first time I saw my collection at Bon Marché.

What inspired your latest collection?

A cross between ’60s Pierre Cardin and ’80s Kim Wilde style.

The arty chick: Alexandra Lanvin

Born in Milan to an Italian father and a Turkish mother (a respected art collector and friend of Dali), Alexandra Lanvin grew up between Switzerland, New York and London. She studied political science and art history before becoming a luxury shoe designer in Paris. Mother of a two-year-old and wife of Jeanne Lanvin’s grandson, nothing is stopping this fiery designer. After a meeting with an Italian artisan, she launched Aperlaï in 2009. Her graphic creations are veritable works of art, blending simplicity and sophistication.

How would you describe your creations?

Contrasts, graphic lines and a combination of materials are the keywords here.

Which are your bestsellers?

Gatsby moccasins and Geisha Doll shoes.

Who or what inspires you?

Artists and designers like Pollock, Picasso, Mondrian, Lovegrove and Arad inspire me. They make me want to play around with colour and fabrics, and have given me a taste for structure.

The best compliment you have ever received...

The support of Kate Bosworth, Naomi Watts, Gwyneth Paltrow, Keira Knightley.

Your fondest memory?

When I was selected by the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, for the exhibition, Shoe Obsession.

The free-flying fashionista: Kunjana Parikh

Kunjana Parikh was born into shoe design. Literally. An established family business and a shoe fetish made for the perfect recipe to set up her own label, Sole Fry. With no formal education in shoe design, but armed with a skill set acquired over generations and an international aesthetic, this business student made a mark through an online presence.

How would you describe your creations?

Understated, with just that one element—colour, embroidery or embellishments—to add to the style quotient. The shoes are always comfortable and very versatile, ranging from studded gladiators to delicate sandals. There is something for everyone, and something for every mood and occasion.

Where are your shoes manufactured?

In Mumbai.

What kind of woman do you design your shoes for?

They are for the global traveller, who is familiar with international trends but knows her personal style well, and is extremely quality conscious, too. The pieces are handcrafted, but have attitude, style and a voice.

Which are your bestsellers?

The Santorini, Jaipur, Tracy, Paris, Constellation and Myra.

The best compliment you have ever received...

A bride for whom we had custom-made a pair told us she was dancing all night in her very stylish shoes.

What inspired your latest collection?

It is all about neutrals. I have juxtaposed natural and tan leathers with metallic colours, mirror foils and multicoloured beads.

Which is your favourite pair?

The white Stella.

The neo-classic romantic: Nayantara Sood

Design was what she loved, and she found shoes were her favourite canvas. And then, while studying footwear design at the London College of Fashion, Nayantara Sood created a collection based on the Wallace Collection, the 16th-century French art. Also while in London, she came across fabulous footwear that had been manufactured in India, but was not available to the Indian market. That was her final cue. When she got back, Taramay was born—in step with international design and crafted in India.

How would you describe your creations?

Classic shapes are mixed with trendy elements—anything from preppy-chic to boho-luxe. The styles are feminine, concentrating on cut and tempered with strong details. I look to design shoes that form the foundation of a woman’s wardrobe and are perennially chic.

What kind of woman do you design your shoes for?

She has a sophisticated aesthetic. She likes her shoes stylish but fuss-free.

Which are your bestsellers?

The Quilted Ballet Flats—I bring them back every season in new colours, the Paisley Brogues, the Tassel Smoking Slippers and the Wedge Pumps.

What inspired your latest collection?

A summer holiday. The collection is a little playful, with textures and prints—polka dots, snake prints, metallics, espadrilles. The colour palette is bold with coral, cranberry and turquoise tones.

Which is your favourite pair?

The Eiffel Ballet Flats.

From the May 2014 issue of L’Officiel India.