Fashion’s Wing (Wo)men

Because watching models and designers pose for shutterbugs is passé, we came up with a novel idea—what if we put the person behind the ramp in the spotlight? Not like one of those social experiments gone awry; but to pay homage to their perseverance and commitment that transported the labels to legendary status. Co-pilots of Abraham & Thakore, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Shivan and Narresh, Namrata Joshipura, Tarun Tahiliani and AM:PM climb onto the driver’s seat! After all, who better than them to promote what designers and their work truly stands for? Yes, it took a whole lot of convincing. But, the final result was a team of masterminds laughing, joking and sharing their experiences in a candid chat, over endless cups of coffee, sandwiches and style sessions! Did they do a fabulous job modelling for us? Well, see for yourself…

Kevin Nigli

Director sales, Abraham & Thakore

L’Officiel India DigitalRead L’Officiel India in the digital libraryEvery issue and every cover story, on TCG Media.Read now

How long have you been with A & T?

I have been with the label since 1995 and there has never been a dull moment. We had no office when we started out so we worked out of David’s house in Defence Colony—just the three of us.

What are the challenges you have faced?

There is a new challenge every day; even after having spent so many years in the business, I feel there is always something new to learn. The toughest is tightrope balancing and pushing the envelope, each season, with a new collection, yet staying true to the brand’s identity. At the end of the day, it’s all about believing what the brand signifies. I have also come to accept, over time, that you don’t always have the answers to everything.

What are the qualities that empower Abraham & Thakore as a label?

The subtlety of less is more, belief in traditional Indian craft and textiles and taking it out of the commonplace and relevant anywhere and anytime.

Can you describe your typical day at work?

Juggling a gamut of things, starting from hectic morning briefings with merchandisers and production, to engaging with clients (which can include even looking at their baby photos!), getting samples made, offering design inputs, seeing production is on track, coordinating with shipping and the toughest—chasing up payments!

What is your 5-year plan for the label?

That the brand aside from continuing its commitment to handloom and sustainability, collaborates more with other design disciplines in joint ventures, providing contemporary design inputs and collections for ceramics, carpets, traditional crafts, like marble inlay, and papier mache.

Saudamini Mattu

CFO, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla

You are Sandeep Khosla’s niece... is work like family?

It was only after I joined the label that I realised how much work really goes into fashion. Sometimes we work till morning, but the company is like a family, so it’s not like you’re working in this big set-up, it’s more like a home away from home.

What are the qualities that empower the label?

It is the desire to attain perfection in whatever they put their minds to. They don’t compromise on hard work; Abu and Sandeep are perfectionists.

What was your first day at work like?

I remember how everyone who had worked at AJSK for the past 25 years knew me as ‘Baby’. So, on the first day, when someone addressed me by my pet name, Sandeep said, “Not anymore!”

What are some of the challenges you face, daily?

Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, remain open to new ideas. Sometimes, I have to ask them to slow down and not rush into things. That is a challenge, as well as a boon. They want to implement new ideas, and they want to do it, like yesterday! I ask them to be patient.

Rahul Arora

Head of marketing, Suneet Varma Designs

How has your experience of working with Suneet been?

I feel I’ve learnt and grown as well as contributed a lot. Suneet respects my opinion and decisions and he is also keen to let me make some decisions. We have been friends for the longest time and I am aware of his work routine. I like the fact that Suneet is professional and punctual. He doesn’t procrastinate at all.

What remains an uphill task?

We are always racing against time, the collection is being perfected right till the day of the show, the accessories are being finished, invites are being printed and the guest lists are being updated—I wouldn’t call it a challenge, it is more like creative thinking and yes, you can always come up with several solutions for every idea that comes to your mind.

What makes SV’s designs unique?

Suneet Varma is, at its core, a creative studio. Every project is limited to time, so, within a span of six months, we could do something as varied as launching a new car with a collection, or designing jewellery.

What’s a typical day at work for you like?

A typical day at work is essentially answering a whole bunch of emails, ideating with Suneet about the possibility of future projects, overseeing everything—from magazine interactions to sending clothes to stylists for celebrity dressing, looking at budgets and organising trunk shows nationally and internationally. It’s a very busy studio!

Ipshita Barua

Head of PR & communication, Tarun Tahiliani

How is it working at TT?

It was a completely new field for me, when I joined Tarun, two-and-a-half-years ago. But, the fun and excitement hasn’t ended. The kind of work I do has been challenging and there is always something new to look forward to.

What empowers the brand?

The way Tarun has taken Indian attire and given it a contemporary twist—the structured sari, for instance, or even the lungi skirt. Very few designers are doing that. That’s what sets Tarun Tahiliani apart. He hasn’t gone completely Western; instead, he has brought modern style to traditional silhouettes.

Your biggest challenge at TT?

When I had joined Tarun, I had done visual communications, photography and a whole lot of other things; except PR. So, for me, it was an uphill task to unlearn and then learn what public relations at Tarun Tahiliani meant.

What is your five-year plan for the brand?

My plan, as of now involves a lot of restructuring within the company. We are ready to take the next step in design and try hundreds of exciting and different things.

Anirudh Birla

Owner & partner, AM:PM

How has AM:PM evolved as a label, over the years?

The label was an instant success when we started out because a niche product like AM:PM, that bridged Indian elements with European sensibilities, was still unavailable at the time. In the last decade, Indian fashion has been in a happy chaos with customers becoming aware of their individual style. We too have entered these exciting times, but at a sustainable pace. Every season, our collection evolves with a focus on giving our customer an enhanced, more stylised product, yet making sure it’s not bordering on uncomfortable.

What sets AM:PM apart from the other designer labels?

Its expandability. AM:PM has an original and unadulterated aesthetic, which people have loved and connected with deeply.

Biggest challenge of all?

I realised early on that even though people loved what we did and eagerly awaited our new collections, they didn’t see the brand from a fashion perspective. I saw this immense talent my sister Priyanka possessed and its staggering potential. I made it my mission to make sure the world actually saw it in that light. This has also been one of the most significant contributions to the label.

What would you have been if not the owner/partner at AM:PM?

Something in Bollywood—a struggling actor, assistant director, a spotboy, or a broke producer!

Can you recall your first day on the job?

I probably slept for a good part of the day!

What is a typical day at work for you like?

My day starts at 9:30 am. But apart from that, there is no particular routine or repetition. I head the sales, retail and branding for AM:PM, and hence, every day there is something new and exciting on the anvil. I’m also secretly a part of the design team and my favourite part of the day is spent ideating with Priyanka.

Suhani Sapra

Assistant fashion designer, Namrata Joshipura

What motivates you every day?

My experience working with Namrata has been wonderful. She is so disciplined and passionate, it is inspirational. I have been exposed to every department—from designing to production; from merchandising to communications. It’s one of the most impactful experiences of my life.

What was your first day on the job like?

I had entered five minutes late on my first day and Namrata was working on her collection for a show. Just as I was about to greet her, she tells me, “I don’t have time for all this and you are late. Make sure never to repeat it.” After that I went and sat in a corner and waited for instructions.

What do you love most about your job?

The fact that it is not monotonous. While it is challenging to work on different aspects of a fashion business, it definitely keeps you on your toes. The learning has been tremendous. I feel I can address any issue any day.

One thing Namrata taught you?

The most important lesson I have learnt from her is that one needs to have passion to do anything. You cannot tiptoe into something you love. You have to dive into it 100 per cent not because you have to, but because you wish to become the best at what you do. Success always lies outside your comfort zone.

Siddhartth Mahajan

Brand manager, Shivan and Narresh

What were your initial thoughts when you joined Shivan and Narresh?

I had known the designers, as friends, since 2007. But, when I started working with them professionally, I remember being jittery. I studied architecture and had no affiliation with fashion, whatsoever! But, the advantage lay in the fact that I had started working with them, while studying, hence, was able to weigh the pros and cons before taking the final career call. By the time I graduated, I was confident about what I wanted to do.

What was the most challenging situation you faced?

In 2012, it was the opening of our Mumbai flagship and it clashed with my graduation jury, final year thesis at the Delhi School of Architecture. I was needed at both places. I remember working day and night, attempting to finish my thesis project, while co-ordinating the launch activities. It all came down to the launch day when I finished my work, submitted my final thesis at the jury hall, booked my tickets to Mumbai, rushed to the airport, handled the launch and got back the same night to be at the jury the next morning!

What’s the USP of the label?

There is a definite uniqueness that sets it apart in the industry, making each day an exciting adventure to try newer moves–from communication to business strategies. I find the brand’s journey extremely entrepreneurial and path-breaking, which is what excites me every day.

Words and styling: Dessidre Fleming. Photographs: Parth Sharma.

From the June 2015 issue of L’Officiel India.