‘Brown’ Girl In The Ring

A beauty and makeup legend. She built her brand purely on her grit and conviction. She is the force who changed perceptions on skin tone in the industry. She talks about being an entrepreneur, her love for makeup, zeal for life, eye for style, the BWYA campaign and much more.

25 years. A curve upwards. What does it mean in words?

Twenty-Five years ago, I started my brand with a simple idea: Beauty is simple. Be who you are. In the 1980s I was working as a freelance makeup artist. Beauty in the ‘80s wasn’t about authenticity—it was more like putting on a mask. Overpowering colors, heavy makeup looks and cookie-cutter models were the norm. I wanted to give women other options.

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It was impossible to find makeup that looked good on skin. I often had to fix most makeup, blending it with other shades to change the tone. I saw a major void in the cosmetics industry that I knew I could help address. My vision was to create a cosmetics line that looked natural and would match and complement women's complexions. It started with creating lipstick shades that made lips look like lips, only better.

A chance meeting with a chemist at a magazine photo shoot changed everything. I had an idea to develop a flattering lipstick that looked like lips, only better, and it became reality with the creation of Brown Lip Color. I realized that not everybody loved neutrals, so I thought about ten different women I knew and what colors would look good on them, and nine other brown-based lipstick shades followed soon after. With this set of ten lipsticks, a woman could create an infinite number of wearable shades, just by mixing and blending them.

Once I had the final product, I was selling the makeup out of my house. It was mail order. It was written about in Glamour magazine by the beauty editor at the time. And, suddenly we got bombarded with orders. I guess that's when I realised I needed to get more serious. My husband and I invested our life savings in the company. It wasn’t much, but it was enough to get us started.

I debuted my line of 10 natural, wearable lipsticks in 1991 at Bergdorf Goodman. I thought we would sell 100 lipsticks in the first month, and we sold 100 in the first day. It was clear that a beauty revolution was underway.

Women seemed to really embrace these uniquely flattering shades and my realistic approach to beauty. They wanted to look their best, and wanted products that are easy to use and actually work.

By 1995 we were overseas in Canada, London and Japan and we were approached by Leonard Lauder with an offer to buy. We weren’t for sale, but we were going through growing pains and knew we needed help if we wanted to take our business to the next level. And, he truly made me an offer that I couldn’t refuse. He offered me an opportunity to retain creative control of my brand while also doing what I loved most, being a mother and wife. I was also impressed particularly because of the company’s history and legendary founder, Estée Lauder. We had the same priorities and similar visions. She was great mother to her two boys all while running a successful business. She really believed in word-of-mouth (she’d always said, ‘tell a friend’). I also really believe that works. She also always took the time to meet and understand her customers, which is also incredibly important to me.

Since the beginning, I’ve used makeup to enhance natural features and I’ve always used flattering, natural-looking products and shades for all skin tones. To this day, my philosophy hasn’t changed, but it’s evolved and our products have definitely expanded to cater to the needs of modern day women around the globe. While today, it’s still about easy makeup that enhances and complements a woman’s unique and natural features – that'll always be my mantra – it’s also about being stylish without falling victim to trends. As far as foundation, concealer and powder are concerned, I still believe in skin tone correct shades. They look the most natural, the most perfect on a woman’s skin. That will never change, either.

Tell us about the Bobbi Brown ‘Be Who You Are Campaign’? What aspect of a woman’s beauty does it celebrate?

“Be who you are” means everything from learning to love your lines to appreciating your unique features. I believe that every woman is beautiful, and the key to bringing out that beauty is confidence. For me, being beautiful isn't just about how you look. It's really about who you are as a person. Center your energy on feeling good about yourself instead of trying to be what you're not.

For our new invigoration of our Be Who You Are campaign, I personally cast each of the 40 + women in the campaign, which includes a mix of real women and models – from teachers, athletes, writers, activists and mothers, ranging in ethnicity and age, from 13 to 83. They come from a variety of backgrounds, are uniquely beautiful, and each have their own cool personality and style that speaks to who they are. Also, I wanted to feature women that women of all ages can relate to and almost find themselves in this campaign. The four main models of the season are also a beautiful representation of global beauty.

This campaign embraces the brand’s past, present and future. Anchored in self-confidence, this new campaign pays tribute to the brand’s empowering philosophy from the beginning— that with the right makeup, tools and knowledge, a woman can look like herself only prettier and more confident.

Tell us about your makeup story? How did you fall in love with the makeup palette and brushes?

My early memories of watching my mother apply her white eye shadow and false eyelashes in her blue gilded bathroom are still with me. I also remember how my grandmother used lipstick as blush and always ended with a splash of rose perfume.

But makeup has always been my passion—it really started when I was five years old and got into my mother’s makeup drawer. I began playing with her makeup, applying it to my face and on the dog. As I grew up, I still loved playing with makeup.

One winter, while home from college, I announced to my mother that I wanted to drop out of school. She said I couldn’t and insisted that I get a college degree – and I thank her for it. She asked me what I wanted to do when I finished school and I had no idea. Then she said something that is so simple, but changed my life. She said, “Forget about what you want to do with your life – pretend it’s your birthday and you can do anything you want.” I stopped and said I wanted to go to Marshall Fields (a Chicago department store) and play with makeup. And she said, “Why don’t you study cosmetics and get a degree from a school somewhere?” My passion for makeup led me to Emerson College in Boston where I pursued a degree in theatrical makeup.

You started as a makeup artist and eventually became an entrepreneur with a makeup brand to reckon with. How did this evolution happen? And would you call the journey a smooth sail or a bumpy ride to success?

When I first started the brand, I had no idea that it would be this successful. I’m so happy with the way my life has turned out – both in terms of my business and my wonderful family. Even though there have been some challenges along the way. Over time, I realised that the most important thing I could ever do, in my life and in my business, is be who I am. This philosophy drives every decision I make.

In the beginning, it was a challenge to manage the business and start a family at the same time. Over time, I’ve learned to find time to do it all – run a company, raise three kids and lead a happy marriage. If you know what’s most important to you, you will always make the right decisions. Strict prioritizing has been my greatest tool. My family is the most important thing to me and I fit everything else around them.

But with a global brand, one of the most challenging parts of my job is that I can’t be everywhere at once. We have so many exciting things happening around the world (new market launches, seasonal events, artist trainings) that I’d love to attend to take part in the excitement and reach a wider audience. The upside is that I have amazing teams on the ground and so many talented makeup artists that serve as my brand ambassadors around the world who do a great job at spreading my beauty philosophy.

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Tell us about your days working with photographers like Bruce Weber, Brigitte Lacombe and Patrick Demarchelier?

I’ve worked with many incredibly talented and inspiring photographers over the years. My first editorial shoot was for Glamour magazine with Brigitte Lacombe, a photographer I had admired for years. I also worked with The Rolling Stones on their album cover shot by the one and only Annie Leibovitz. Needless to say it was an awesome experience. As the jobs kept rolling in, and with each shoot, I really felt and knew that my hard work was paying off.

A breakthrough moment in my early years as a makeup artist was my Vogue cover with Naomi Campbell, shot by Patrick Demarchelier. I was so excited to get that job. It was my first cover shoot and such a legendary one for Vogue with Naomi on the cover. I was so nervous and did makeup on Naomi that was out of her comfort zone, but in the end, everything went really well. I could never have predicted at that time that I’d eventually have my own line. I was just living in the moment.

Bruce Weber, another wonderful photographer, is also a dear friend and has always been a great mentor of mine. I met Bruce years ago at a shoot when I was the assistant to his makeup artist. One day when the makeup artist was out sick, Bruce asked me to take the lead. He was both professional and kind, and I found that so inspiring. He would always insist that the models on his shoots look like they weren’t wearing any makeup, which I loved. If anything looked like makeup it had to be taken off. We approach things – both personally and professionally – in the same way. Like me, Bruce believes in keeping things real. This means everything from enhancing a woman’s natural features (through makeup and photography) to doing things with integrity and being kind to everyone you meet.

The launch of the Brown lip colour, what reminiscences does that bring?

Business wasn’t really your forte. How did you hone your skills?

When I first started the brand, there weren’t as many women entrepreneurs and there wasn’t a lot of information out there. Today, there’s a lot more information for young women and a lot more female role models.

Leonard Lauder, chairman emeritus of The Estée Lauder Companies Inc, has been an amazing mentor to me. Leonard is incredibly charismatic and friendly with everyone he comes in contact with. When Leonard gives speeches and he talks about his close relationships with people, I can promise you that everyone in the room thinks he's talking just about them. And I’ll never forget one of the first things he said to me when I first became part of the Estée Lauder family; He said, “As your boss, the best you can do is travel the world, but as a mother you need to be home for your kids.

Another one of my biggest mentors, and business person who has inspired me is Mickey Drexler, CEO of J Crew Group. I admire Mickey’s brilliance and honesty, and how he is so incredibly accomplished, yet so humble. He spends his time mentoring so many people, and gives the best advice. Mickey is an incredible and unique combination of art and commerce. He has a 360 view of world and applies it to business and his personal life. He is one of those rare right and left brained people. I also admire how connected he is. He e-mails me back in 30 seconds himself. No assistants. That taught me a lot.

I have always followed my gut, and he reassured me that trusting my gut is actually a good way to do business – and that is okay to be a creative entrepreneur. Above all, his advice on making mistakes is invaluable. Mistakes allow you an opportunity to learn, grow and course correct. It’s not always a bad thing.

A makeup brand that subscribes to a ‘natural makeup’ approach. What is the philosophy that the brand actually follows? And is it easy to withstand the competition that promotes colours?

Natural doesn’t mean nude. Since the beginning, I’ve used makeup to enhance natural features and I’ve always used flattering, natural-looking products and shades. To this day, my philosophy hasn’t changed but it’s evolved and our products have definitely expanded to cater to the needs of modern day women around the globe. While today, it’s still about easy makeup that enhances and complements a woman’s unique and natural features – that'll always be my mantra – it’s also about being stylish without falling victim to trends. As far as foundation, concealer and powder are concerned, I still believe in skin tone correct shades. They look the most natural, the most perfect on a woman’s skin. That will never change, either.

I’ve always preferred a natural or nude makeup look – it’s flattering and timeless. It flatters everyone and is pretty much mistake-proof. Natural or nude makeup means choosing the most flattering shades and textures for your face. However, natural makeup doesn’t mean completely bare-faced. The secret is to choose shades that are similar in tone to your complexion – for example, eye shadows that mimic the natural colouring of your eyelids and lipsticks that look like your lips. If a nude shade looks ashy, it’s too light for you. If it looks muddy, the shade is too dark.

But I’m also an artist and I love color and I find ways to integrate bolder and brighter trends into my collections, all while making them more wearable for everyday. Sometimes I created beauty looks that are more runway than everyday for Fashion Week, Editorial shoots, etc, but I love showing women how they can translate these looks to fit their personal style, as well as enhance their features.

There were several companies that approached you, what made you pick Estée Lauder?

By 1995, we were overseas in Canada, London and Japan and we were approached by Leonard Lauder with an offer to buy. We weren’t for sale, but we were going through growing pains and knew we needed help if we wanted to take our business to the next level. Leonard made me an offer that I couldn’t refuse. I could run my business while being a mother. I was also impressed particularly because of the company’s history and legendary founder, Estée Lauder.

What kind of innovation strategies does the brand follow? What are the key influencers? How important is to be in trend?

My goal for the future is to meet the beauty needs of consumers around the world, and develop effective products using innovative and high quality ingredients that really provide immediate and long-term benefits, as well as integrating bolder and brighter trends into my collections, all while making them more wearable for everyday. I’ve found that women want simple, effective products that will help them look and feel their very best.

Over the years, I’ve learned that innovation is key, so I’m always looking for something new and exciting. It’s important for me to translate my inspirations – which I usually get from traveling and meeting women all over the world – into innovative and functional products. For example, Asian women are known for their beautiful skin and dedicated beauty rituals, many of which have been passed down for generations. Also, historically various Ancient Eastern Medicine practices have been using potent herbs/ingredients for thousands of years for medicinal uses for overall health and well-being. Today, we hear about some of these ingredients being incorporated into skincare products, combined with advanced technologies. And some of the biggest beauty trends and innovations have originated in Asia so naturally the beauty industry is being inspired by this. Lately, my team and I have been focusing on makeup and skincare hybrids, and incorporating historically potent ingredients from around the world.

Digital is of course the biggest game changer and influence in the beauty industry. It continues to evolve and impact how we learn about and purchase products. I love how it promotes authenticity as women are connecting and learning from each other through social media.

Define your relationship with makeup and own personal makeup style? What are your favourites?

I like to apply a few of my staple products every morning, before work (usually in the car), but I’m not afraid of going bare-faced, especially on the weekend. I keep my beauty routine really simple – it takes less than 5 minutes.

Most of the time I will use my customized face touch up palette which has empty pans that I filled with my shades of corrector, concealer, foundation stick, pot rouge and lip balm. I apply concealer, black mascara, Pot Rouge and Lip Gloss. With these easy to use products, I look healthy and refreshed.

For an evening look, it’s all about black Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner and layering different mascara formulas (it’s a quick and easy way to get the look of false lashes).

Would you advise women to wear makeup everyday? What kind of products are friendly for everyday wear?

Makeup isn’t about rules, it’s about options. To me, it’s more important that a woman uses makeup to feel her prettiest and most confident. At Bobbi Brown, we’re all about makeup artistry, and empowering a woman to be her own makeup and skincare expert. I always recommend that women experiment with different looks and colors until they find something that suits their personality best. For some women, that means natural, subtle colors and for others, it means a more vibrant look. Personally, I would love to be that woman who wears a bright red lip or a dramatic smokey eye, but I’m not that person. I look and feel most beautiful wearing a nude makeup look.

When it comes to makeup for everyday, women today are extremely busy balancing a career, friends and family, so they want effective, multi-tasking products that can instantly help them look and feel their very best. For busy women around the world, I recommend using double-duty products that provide more than one benefit, and can save time—which many of ours do. For example, stick foundation can be used to even out skin tone and cover blemishes, cream blush can be used on both cheeks and lips, and dark powder eye shadow can be used to line your eyes and define your brows. Also, globally we are seeing more multi-tasking skincare formulas, like BB Creams and CC Creams that provide skincare benefits and coverage, which are great for today’s modern day woman who is constantly on-the-go.

What is your take on Indian skin tones?

Indian women are definitely some of the most beautiful in the world. They have the most beautiful eyes. I’ve had the pleasure of working with several Indian models and real women and they’ve all exuded confidence and have such a positive attitude. They embrace the philosophy that real beauty isn’t just about what’s on the outside.

What kind of a home-work schedule do you follow?

Your other interests would include...

Family always comes first.

I love to cook for my husband and my three sons – it helps me relax on the weekends or after a long day at the office. Actually, if I wasn’t a makeup artist, I’d like to be a nutritional chef. I am fascinated by what the right foods can do for your body and believe that what you put in your body is as important as what you put on your skin. I’m obsessed with beauty foods—food that fills you up but is also good for you and makes you look good. To me, being healthy is about incorporating a well-balanced diet and exercise into your lifestyle.

Also, I always feel better when I exercise regularly, whether it’s biking, yoga or just a quick walk around the block in the middle of a busy day. I find that when I’m mindful about how I’m treating myself, that’s when I look and feel my very best.

Your favourite celebrities who wear Bobbi Brown makeup?

Over the years I’ve worked with countless women around the world – from real women to celebrities - who I’ve loved working with and who most importantly have inspired me. Whether real women or celebrities – I love how they use makeup to enhance their natural features. Beyond makeup, we’ve talked about life-altering events; everything from the joy of being a new mom to dealing with homelessness and divorce. With each conversation, these women have shown that when you have the will and the heart, almost anything is possible.

Tell us more about your personal style? And your favourite fashion designers?

I like to feel pulled-together but comfortable. My style is a mix of classic, timeless pieces like CHANEL and Saint Laurent blazers, The Row and Céline blouses with casual wardrobe staples like jeans from Rag & Bone and AG, and great tee shirts from Alexander Wang and J.Crew. Comfort is key. I get everything tailored to fit me perfectly.

During the day, I feel great in ripped jeans and a crisp white button-down. In the evening, I’ll go for sleek black pants, a fitted blazer and platform high heels and I’ll add jewellery like a big chunky necklace or earrings.

One advice, you would like to give a woman, who is conscious of her flaws?

Be who you are. Center your energy on feeling good about yourself instead of trying to be what you're not. True beauty is about feeling comfortable and confident in your own skin. We spend too much energy obsessing over things we can’t change and wishing we looked different or had someone else’s features. Learn to love yourself and start appreciating who you are and the features that make you unique.