PROJECT DESIGN-TECTURE

PROJECT DESIGN-TECTURE

Advances in fashion and technology have made it easier to embrace shapes and structures. The lines of architecture and fashion are blurring. We give you a peek into the collections of designers who have taken architecture-inspired understanding to new heights.

RAHUL MISHRA

The latest collection by Rahul Mishra is inspired by Mughal architecture, their gardens and miniature paintings, which are a blend of Islamic geometry and old Indian art forms. “We started by looking at the walls and forms of monuments which have geometric patterns tessellating with a dense play of organic floral forms,” says Rahul.

The collection has a play of pastel pink, peach, yellow and green and hints of red and fuscia inspired by autumn leaves. Ivory and gold are also strong elements in the collection. Traditional techniques such as zardozi, aari as well as 3D appliqué hand embroidery adorn the garments. Silhouettes are a play between traditional and contemporary. Sample this: capes and jackets make their way to replace traditional dupatta adding functionality.

The collection is called Maraasim, which means relationship in Urdu. And aptly so. It is based on connections between past and present. The collection revives ancient visual expressions and explores new forms, with the ingenious use of geometry and arabesque to achieve patterns of dizzying complexity. Intricate vegetal motifs with chevrons and spandrels from the rich decorative vocabularies of an earlier era come alive as surface texturing. Maraasim explores the relationship between nature and architecture, traditional and modern, crafted through hand-woven textiles.

AMIT AGGARWAL

Amit Aggarwal’s creation has always been greatly inspired by science, architecture and mathematics. “I look at biology and architecture for inspiration and use mathematical calculations to design silhouettes, details and new materials. It’s important for a designer to deeply reflect as to what it is that makes them different and one-of-a-kind, especially in terms of what they seek for inspiration,” says Amit. Amit, who has long pioneered in engineering modern and innovative couture, showcased his collection Crystalis at the 11th edition of India Couture Week. It was inspired by two wondrous natural phenomena: the formation of crystals at a molecular level and the enveloping of the metallic chrysalis around a cocoon.

The collection uses experimental textiles created using industrial materials, enhanced with zardozi and aari hand techniques. A range of handcrafted threedimensional embroideries in various crystalline and bio-mimicked forms and motifs, giving fabrics a unique visual and tactile quality. The colour palette for Crystalis consisted of metallic shades of rose gold, silver, pewter and light gold along with jewel tones of rose quartz, silver onyx, emerald, amethyst, topaz and sapphire. Some of the most compelling visuals in the presentation were extensive silhouettes morphing using different aspects of traditional Indian and westernshapes infusing them with structure and form.

This aspect was showcased using a range of sophisticated cording, plisse and topstitched fabrications, laboriously designed and crafted inhouse. Sharply cut innovative patterns that accentuate and enhance the female form, were combined with incredibly sculptural yet agile fabrications that dramatically drape around the body.

Chitman Kanwar Ahuja

Chitman Kanwar Ahuja is a feature writer at L'Officiel India. She is a silver jewellery hoarder and an aesthete of all arts. You can find her unraveling new stories day in and day out.