Mesh Apart

Newly named head of Barrie, Augustin Dol-Maillot, breathes modernity and desirability to this brand of cashmere, which was brought back by Chanel.

Newly named head of Barrie, Augustin Dol-Maillot, breathes modernity and desirability to this brand of cashmere, which was brought back by Chanel.

What is your background?

I was born in Tours, but I was brought up in Nice. My father is a ballet choreographer-director in Monte Carlo and my mother was a model in 1980. I currently live in Paris.

How has been your journey?

I started at Chanel at the age of 16 years, in a summer internship. Since I got along very well with the studio, I renewed the experience for two more summers in a row. Once, I had done my baccalaureate, I interned at the Chanel studio for eight months before starting my studies of graphic designing at the Higher Institute of Applied Arts, in Paris. After an internship at Research Studio, in Paris, I was hired for graphics and artistic direction. In parallel, with my brother, we launched a fashion brand. Because of the lack of means, we collected all the luxury accessories from our parents to make clothes. I followed my father to Moscow, who offered to commission the Ballet of Balchoi costumes to me. After this great adventure, I joined the studio at Chanel.

What is your typical daily routine?

In the morning, I walk my white Jack Russell before going to the office. I split my time between the Barrie studio and the one at Chanel. I only have to cross the street.

How was your experience while starting at Barrie?

In May 2018, Karl Lagerfeld offered me to take the artistic directions from Barrie. In four weeks, thanks to the know-how of the technical teams, I created the Spring/Summer 2019 collection.

How would you describe this first collection?

The starting point was the colour. I had developed some new colours which were not in the catalogue. The graphics were the second determining aspect. I played with the codes of Scotland: the thistle, the college spirit, the idea of a uniform. I wanted this collection to correspond to a “daily summer day”,  from the morning pyjama to the breakfast with a little more chic evening cashmere fishnet. It is a complete wardrobe. All the pieces mix-and-match well. I imagined three axes: homewear, travelwear and nightwear. The big novelty is that we mixed the cashmere to other fibres such as cotton, linen and silk.

What are your fetish pieces?

There is the denim theme in total cashmere with their three colours: raw, faded and white, the striped pyjama and the cardigan with the two ‘B’s.

What is the street wear part of the collection?

The collection is street despite me because this is my universe. But I did not want to fall in the trap of total street wear. The Berrie wardrobe is unisex enough in its spirit, but I wished it also had some very feminine pieces.

What is the specificity of the Barrie manufacturer in Scotland?

The brand of Barrie is incomparable. The manner in which the Scots work with cashmere makes the fibre almost intact. This is the secret of the longevity of a cashmere Barrie. The fibre opens and softens over time.

What are your dreams for Barrie?

I wish that Barrie exists as long as the brand exists and that it goes out on its niche side and provides cashmere. We are in the process of working on different projects in this sense, and for Barrie to have an even stronger identity.

What is your motto?

One should always have confidence; otherwise nobody else will ever have the confidence in you. I never see myself in more than two weeks or two days. I have always accepted the defeats which are much greater than me. I never worry about the future.

Puneet Kapani
Features Writer