Incandescent Magic

Incandescent Magic

Peerless enchantment, personality, and exquisite elegance – these are well recognised features of designer Ester Abner’s namesake label. Established in 2012 by the Russian designer, the brand is an epitome of haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, which embodies the designer’s aesthetic language in perfect harmony with natural materials and a perfect fit. Ester’s ambition for her label is to provide the wearer with an effortless and timeless style that will become a wardrobe staple for the woman who is ready to take on the world. 

To her credit, Ester has successfully demonstrated her unique perspective of fashion via her collections, and the industry is taking notice. Which is why it’s so interesting to see what else this young designer has to offer in her upcoming collections. Edited excerpts...

How did the journey of fashion design begin for you?

Ever since childhood, I have loved experimenting with clothing, by re-cutting and re-sewing pieces. I would turn skirts into blouses and dresses, and vice versa. It was my favourite thing to do. Eventually, this hobby turned in into the basis of my education, which I received at the Moscow State University of Design and Technology. 

Having gained this knowledge, it was necessary to put everything to use as well.  I was so in love with fashion; the process of creating, experimenting, searching for new designs, new ideas, sketches, and that made it impossible for me to stop. It became the goal of my artistic life, and when I set a goal for myself, I will do anything to achieve it, ‘cause I am a Capricorn’ (laughs).

When you start to design a new collection, what is the process? 

The first and foremost step for me, is to ensure that the design is based upon my lifelong experience. It reflects my thoughts, interests, and impressions. That’s why the process for each collection is always different. Sometimes I like to work with music, sometimes without it, and quite often I might jump out of bed in the middle of the night to sketch down a new idea. In general, every idea is a collective image of what I saw yesterday, today, and dream to see tomorrow.

Your creations are synonymous with the imperial touch in fashion designing. Take us through your inspiration board that helps create such regal finesse?

Each person has his own tastes, views, preferences, and character, based on a wide range of factors. The most significant point for me is the culture—its roots, language, and temperament. I was born, and lived most of my life in the Georgian Republic, taking in its colours, music, poetry, and fashion. You can see its reflection in each of my collections, and whatever I create vividly depicts the spirit of Georgia, closely intertwined with mine.

What have been the biggest influences on your work?

Beauty has always inspired me. It’s my perception of life. Paintings, architecture, nature—anything can be a source of my inspiration at any given moment, if it coincides with my feelings, emotions, mood, and vision. But to me fashion is foremost about beauty, aesthetics, and good energy.

How do you balance that fine sense of reality and fantasy, when it comes to  your designs?

I find it fascinating to have a dialogue with myself and my own thoughts, but I of course, live in the real world and my fantasies are also real. At the same time, all my designs are an attempt to translate those thoughts into reality.  

Your current FW’19/20 collection showcases metallic hues and imperial silhouettes. What was the ideology behind its inception?

The source of inspiration for our FW’19/20 collection was the ‘Disco Style.’ A decade of glamour, music, dancing, and an eternal holiday within Saturday night discos. The legendary ‘80s are known for being the brightest decade in the world of fashion—it was free and expressive, not to mention polyhedral. A time of glitter and glam, flaming flowers, and the use of colours in a variety of combinations.     

Fashion is defined as an evolutionary process. Is there an evolution from your perspective?

Fashion is always on the move. It is always at a crossroads in time, where it consistently changes us along with it.

The fashion industry is one of the most competitive and demanding fields of work. How do you manage the creative and commercial side of your label?

At the heart of everything, the most fundamental things are having a reliable team of professional, working collectively in a coordinated manner. It’s the secret behind 99 per cent of your success.

Who’s your next muse?

Angelina Jolie

What do you think will be the biggest upcoming trend that will change the global fashion industry?

Models and fabrics that use nanotechnology.

What next can we expect from this power fashion label?

When I visit the chic boutiques of famous fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana, I realise that they are at a level at which I intent to reach. I dream of my brand being amongst the top 10 best brands in the history of fashion, and worn by people all around the globe.

Chitman Kanwar Ahuja

Chitman Kanwar Ahuja is a feature writer at L'Officiel India. She is a silver jewellery hoarder and an aesthete of all arts. You can find her unraveling new stories day in and day out.