A cloud of whipped tutti frutti cream, a bud of electro flower—in the world of Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi’s designs are unstructured, uninhibited and unique. Has fashion found its new genius?, between 50 and 80 metres of fabric is needed on an average to create a single silhouette. The centrepiece worn by Gwendoline Christie in the first show of Koizumi, held in New York last February, had 200 metres of pink organza, mint water and yellow chick. It took a lot of time to be created because of its intrinsic details. The bands of ruffles were created one by one from a chart of 400 colours, before being assembled on the sewing machine according to the pattern—more or less self-absorbed.
Thanks to British stylist Katie Grand that Tomo’s work was revealed. His rapid evolution towards ever more spectacular pieces was initially encouraged by one of Katie’s friend and British fashion designer Giles Deacon on Instagram. His work is one-of-a-kind, operative and obviously moving towards couture. It was January when Tomo received a call from American fashion designer Marc Jacob. The calls never stopped. He got calls from hairdresser Guido Palau, makeup artist Pat McGrath, Rowan Blanchard, Emily Ratajkowski, Bella Hadid and Gwendoline Christie. The fate was cast, the show was to take place at the Marc Jacobs store on Madison Avenue, New York on February 8. The event was largely relayed by guests on social networks, tripling the number of subscribers on Tomo’s Instagram account. His collection soon became the centre of unanimous critics and attracted buyers such as Dover Street Market and Net-a-Porter. It all began with Tomo starting as a costume designer in 2012 while continuing his entertainment activities in Tokyo.
In 2016, she dressed Lady Gaga in an unstructured ballet dress. His work which is an aesthetic of excess, perfectly represents the new maximalism, in opposition to the formal monasticism of 2010, which had begun to spring London. The two examples, we can cite are, when the designer Molly Goddard lay her eyes on a tulle dress. This trend was confirmed by the first collections of Matty Bovan, who is the protégé of Katie Grand. With these creators, Tomo shares the same desire to redefine the “pop” conquering woman.